tool for cutting filler hole

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john_d · #1 Post by **john_d** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:22 pm

is there a special name for these, also where can i get 1, bearing in mind it will only be used once so hopefully it wont cost a fortune.

junkcatcher · #2 Post by **junkcatcher** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:30 pm

I used an HSS hole saw from B&Q one of the budget priced Orange coloured ones.
Trick is to use in a poweful drill ( I use my battery powered 1/2" drive Impact Wrench) with a really slow speed and as long as you drilled a pilot hole first it should be ok ---
Important to paint & seal the exposed edges of the hole to avoid a rust trap.

If you want mine -- used once "guv" honest :-) you can have it and the pilot for 50% of the B&Q price.

john_d · #3 Post by **john_d** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:03 pm

what the b&q price?

billynoband · #4 Post by **billynoband** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:07 am

3.5 mm drill bit and lot's of holes, knock it out then file it smooth.

lazydocker · #5 Post by **lazydocker** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:38 am

billynoband wrote:3.5 mm drill bit and lot's of holes, knock it out then file it smooth.

Surely that's an April Fool's?

junkcatcher · #6 Post by **junkcatcher** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:43 am

[quote="lazydocker"][quote="billynoband"]3.5 mm drill bit and lot's of holes, knock it out then file it smooth.[/quote]

Surely that's an April Fool's?[/quote]

No it is called chain drilling --- really best used only where no other suitable method is available.
I'll check the B&Q price of saw and arbor -- won't extortionate.

billynoband · #7 Post by **billynoband** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:39 pm

Or if you are as tight as me.

SimonHobson · #8 Post by **SimonHobson** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:36 pm

Lots of options ...

As above, hole saw.
Also as above, chain drill, carefully file between the drill holes with a small round file, then file it out with a wide half-round file.
I used a sheet metal nibbler - tricky cutting round a curve, but I did it with a bit of tidying with a file.
I've seen power nibblers that go in a drill and will cut arbitrary curve.
If feeling flush, a Q-Max cutter - but they are the very antithesis of 'cheap'.

arudge · #9 Post by **arudge** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:26 pm

All HSS (high speed steel) tools cut a lot better with lashings of oil all over them, stops the cutting edge burning out. Any oil will do, the thicker the better.

jayc · #10 Post by **jayc** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:01 am

Chain drilling only takes about 5 mins on a 70mm hole. I had to chain drill mine the other day as I leant my hole saw out and it came back blunt!

redzed · #11 Post by **redzed** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:50 am

If you're fitting the filler into a steel body panel you definitely need a hole saw but if you're fitting it into a plastic bumper etc chain drilling will work just fine but it'll take you a hell of a lot longer to do.

billynoband · #12 Post by **billynoband** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:36 pm

Don't forget the rubber gaiter on the back of the filler like I did, as mine failed the inspection on that.

magneto · #13 Post by **magneto** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:52 pm

Is it only me that finds 'nibblers' produce thousands of really sharp crescent shaped tyre puncture/stuck in your hand splinter creators?
Best sheet metal hole cutters are those dual diameter shear type jobs - no heat, no swarf, no distortion, minimal paint damage.

Happy Easter

Gilbertd · #14 Post by **Gilbertd** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:02 pm

No, I find they do too. They get stuck into the bottom of your shoes and spread around everywhere too. The other thing with them is that they mark the area alongside the cut so I wouldn't fancy using one on bodywork. Unless Simon is talking about the hand nibbler (rather than a power one) that creates a long coil of sheet metal (but also marks the metal either side of the cut).