1998 P38 Range Rover guidance?

[LPGC]

For now, I do plan on replacing the tank in the car. What’s the largest dimension that the wheel well will take?

Generally 720x270mm if you want the flap over it to close as normal. I say generally because some design tanks (with feet) might need the well 'massaging' a bit if you want to keep the feet. It's possible to fit a zero degree (full torodial) multivalve tank, a 30degree multivalve tank, or a 4 hole tank in the spare wheel well of a P38. Some types (usually zero degree / 4 hole) at 720x270mm will need the tray that holds the jack etc to be cut/modified. There's a trick to fitting a 720x270 zero degree tank, only one position the valve can protrude through the side of the spare wheel well which is at around the 11 O'Clock position.

[v8vroom]

Thanks.

Within the month, I should have a new tank fit.

With the cold weather, a new problem arises.

In the past, there was a slight misfire where the car would gently shake when switching to LPG mode, where there was a loss of power for a few mins before operating as normal.

As we’re now hitting colder temperatures, the car either stalls when switching to LPG, and if the cars a little warmer, there is a significant loss of power to the point where I can’t drive it in LPG mode.

A new finding as I was typing this - when the car stalls, there’s a constant ticking sound from the tank.

Could a new set of LPG specific sparkplugs fix this, or could this be something else?

[Gilbertd]

Dirty gas, see viewtopic.php?t=19640

[LPGC]

We still don't know what parts you have or how they are installed, setup and calibrated. Some of these things could effect how it performs, including during switching.

Constant ticking from the tank after stalling would be unusual. But you seem set on changing the tank anyway so if you think it's due to some aspect of the tank or it's valve you'll probably expect that to stop when you've changed the tank. Some systems do make the tank 'tick' at the point of switching from petrol to LPG because they open and close the tank solenoid repeatedly around 10 times before keeping it open, they were designed to do that to help open a sticking tank solenoid valve.

If problems during changeover are a new thing it may be that your injectors have become dirty due to a recent supply of dirty gas viewtopic.php?t=19640 but if you haven't driven the car much on LPG that's unlikely.

Don't fit Brisk spark plugs. A cheap set of NGK nickel plugs maybe with the gap reduced a little will give good results on the Rangerover, or ask @Gilbertd what plugs he recommends.

Post crossed with Gilberts.

[Gilbertd]

Pre-99, use NGK BPR6ES, 99 or later use NGK PFR6N-11. The BPR6ES will usually fit and work perfectly fine on later cars but some have a slightly smaller hole in the cylinder head casting so the hex is too big necessitating use of the, more expensive, PFR6N-11. Don't waste your money on any of the, supposedly superior, LPG plugs.

[v8vroom]

Pre-99, use NGK BPR6ES, 99 or later use NGK PFR6N-11. The BPR6ES will usually fit and work perfectly fine on later cars but some have a slightly smaller hole in the cylinder head casting so the hex is too big necessitating use of the, more expensive, PFR6N-11. Don't waste your money on any of the, supposedly superior, LPG plugs.

Reviving an old thread.

I'm looking for another P38 running on LPG with a £5000 budget, but there aren't many online, so I thought why not buy one in good condition and get it converted?
What brand would you recommend? One of my many local shops is offering BRC/Kings.

[Gilbertd]

Is that BRC or King? Two completely different systems but out of the two I'd go for the King. Much easier to reconfigure so when it doesn't work properly you can take it to Simon (LPGC) and he can sort it for you. Or just go to Simon in the first place......

[LPGC]

Thanks for the mention Gilbert, yes I'd convert the P38, lost count of the number of P38's I've converted in the past but I remember doing 10 on the trot years ago and have converted many dozens more.

Neither King or BRC would be what I'd advise these days, either could give good results but not as good as they could be. With all setups the injectors used and how it's fitted and calibrated make more difference than other aspects but there are better electronics than King or BRC.

[v8vroom]

It has been a long while since I last posted.

I trust you are all well!

So, it's been nearly a year since my second P38. It currently has the filler mounted on a towbar, thankfully resulting in no hole drilled into the rear bumper. However, I plan to remove this towbar, which will leave the filler dangling. Instead of defacing the bumper, I would plan to hide the filler behind the petrol fuel flap. Conscious that the regular bayonet filler head may not fit next to the petrol cap, what are my options?

Get a DISH filler installed and use a bayonet> DISH adapter? I have a toroidal tank sat in the spare wheel well. Would this be a simple matter for the installer to fit a new filler under the petrol cap and route the pipes?

[LPGC]

There are purpose made 'hidden fillers', hidden because they're small, hidden because they can often be fitted behind petrol doors. https://lpgshop.co.uk/small-hidden-fillers/

To use a hidden filler the owner has to first attach an adapter, the hidden fillers have an internal M10 thread or external M16 thread into which you screw the appropriate UK bayonet to M10 / M16 adpater. Hidden fillers don't really have provision for external venting but that's OK if for example you fit the hidden filler behind a petrol door and the gas pipe doesn't enter the interior of the vehicle because in that case there's no chance of gas entering the vehicle even if the rear of the hidden filler leaks.

I've never fitted a hidden filler behind the petrol door of a P38 and it's been years since I've had a look at the rear end of a P38 petrol hatch (from inside), Gilbertd might know the design of the P38 petrol filler and whether a hidden filler could be fitted whilst not running gas pipes inside the vehicle.

It would probably be just as easy to relocate the existing filler somewhere else at the rear of the vehicle.

[Gilbertd]

Why not fit the filler into the bumper where one of the towbar electrical sockets would go? That way you don't need to cut the bumper and you won't need the sockets if you are removing the towbar anyway. Although you might have fun finding the blanks for the holes in the bumper as originals are NLA and used ones go for ridiculous money. Those 10mm adapters used with a dish and low profile fillers always make me cringe. You've got the full weight of the filling nozzle and hose hanging on a skinny little bit of threaded brass. Technically they don't comply with the code of practice for use in the UK either which stipulates a bayonet filler.