Error message "impossible to connect "

[Gilbertd]

Timings should be gas at between 1.2 and 1.5x petrol timings, ideally nearer to 1.2x, so between 4.16 and 5.2. Gas pressure at 1.06 sounds too low too, increase it up to 1.2-1.3 which will bring the timings down and may get it right, or at least a lot closer.

[Brian_H]

Sorry never got round to looking at the software yesterday, but yes you've found what I thought was there. As Gillbertd says above, pressure is too low. Not sure if you've said above, but depending on your injectors some have different size nozzles available, it might be worth saying what injectors and if you have any nozzles fitted what ones they are.

[rodstares]

Okay, I put the gas pressure at 1.05 as that was what was in the previous configuration, I thought that it may have been the standard supply pressure, didn't realise it was a set pressure. So just entering the number in the software increases the pressure? How does that work, physically?

[rodstares]

I'll have to check the injectors, they are emer branded. I put 6mm nozzles in. Actually i think they are m6 thread, 4mm bore

[Brian_H]

Okay, I put the gas pressure at 1.05 as that was what was in the previous configuration, I thought that it may have been the standard supply pressure, didn't realise it was a set pressure. So just entering the number in the software increases the pressure? How does that work, physically?

Press. gas shows the pressure currently being supplied, you adjust that at the vapouriser (usually an allen key in the housing). Adjust it whilst running on gas till you see the pressure you want in the software. The setting in the software is the reference, so you'd then set that to the same value, Thats used for the base map (so if the pressure drops/rises the ecu will adjust timings to suit).

The nozzles would be the ones fitted to the injectors, rather than the ones used to connect into the manifold (usually called spuds). Are these > https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts ... ctor-rail/ what your using? If so its a case of drilling them out if needed, but suggest you just identify what size they are currently drilled out to if you can. Or just see if you can adjust pressure first to get it right. You should then recalibrate it once you've got near the right pressure.

[LPGC]

In the Emer software, go into 'Injectors check' or 'Diagnosis' screen (whichever your software has, most likely injectors check) and untick the box marked 'enable diagnosis'. This will prevent the Emer ECU switching back to petrol due to the shorted temp sensor wires. Then in the 'adjustments' screen set all 'reducer temp correction' figures to zero. Leave the 'gas temp correction figures' as they are.

Most Emer 6/8 cylinder kits were sold with Emer Palladio reducer and Emer34 injectors which are actually Valtek34 injectors. Do you have this reducer and injectors? The Emer Palladio reducer allows a fairly wide range of pressure adjustment and pressure will need increasing (try adjusting the reducer pressure to 1.3 bar - physically at the reducer and in software settings as Gilbert/Brian said above) and it'll be just as important to make sure the injector nozzles are 3mm. Any change to physical pressure (turning the reducer pressure adjustment screw), reference pressure (software pressure setting) or nozzle size means you'll also have to re-calibrate.

[rodstares]

Good morning gents. I have Emer BATLPG model and the nozzles on the injectors are 3mm, I used a 3mm drill bit to remove a bit of debris from one before I installed them. Nothing serious, just insert and twistt o remove a bit of fluff. The injectors are Emer 34. I'll crank that gas pressure up this morning and see what she does. Main problem I've had is not being able to run it for any length of time to the temp error switching me back to petrol. If I use the procedure above and can get it running right can I just drive it that until my replacement temp sensor arrives? I guess I'd want to let it warm up then manually switch to gas.

[rodstares]

It's seems that the emer BAT is a fixed pressure regulator, I could be snookered here, pre set at .9 too little pressure for a 4.5 litre 6?

[LPGC]

Believe the Emer Bat is Emer's reworking of the OMVL CPR reducer only with metal connections (water etc) instead of plastic. It is pressure adjustable but not to the extent of the Palladio and not as pressure stable under load. I'd think it marginal in terms of flow for a 4+ litre engine.

Correct about the changeover, let the engine warm then switch to LPG.

[rodstares]

Ok cheers, any idea where the adjustment screw is? On the drawing for the reducer there is nothing in the centre of the spring, just a recess. There is one little fitting above the gas outlet that has a lock nut but I can't see in the drawing what it does and none of the manuals I have describe it's function. It is labeled as item 2 in the diagram but not described

[rodstares]

That little device looks like a pressure relief valve to me, just a spring and seat with a vent.

[Gilbertd]

If there is an adjuster it will be on the 'nose' of the reducer. All the pictures I can find of an Emer Bat reducer show it as having the Emer logo where you would expect to find the pressure adjusting screw. Is the logo on a sticker? If it is the adjuster may be under the sticker. However the Bat is obsolete and no longer available with most suppliers suggesting the OMVL CPR as an alternative. But the CPR is only rated for engines up to 135 bhp. As Simon has suggested that the Bat was simply a reworking of the OMVL CPR (OMVL and Emer are both owned by Westport Industries), it sounds like you've got a reducer that isn't up to the job you're trying to use it for.

[rodstares]

Nothing under the sticker, just a blank recess. Looks like I'll be ordering an upgrade. Now, what to upgrade to? Palladio? The 1fz fe produced 240 hp when new, this old girl wouldn't be doing that anymore bit still I'll need a decent unit for it. Also compatible with my ECU and preferably easy to fit into the current system without extensive reworking...

[rodstares]

The v6 this system came off was 204 hp

[Brian_H]

You can stick any reducer in there as long as its upto the job, doesn't have to be EMER branded. Don't know what to suggest though, what's available from where your planning to get it?

[rodstares]

It's cheaper and easier for me to get one shipped from the UK so Tinley or LPG shop

[rodstares]

Running auto calibration to see what happens and it started going through it's routine once and was seeming to improve, gas injector timing getting closer to the petrol and starting to.smooth out a bit then I lost comms with the ECU. I've got it reconnected but now it seems to sit at stabilize on idle and wait.... And doesn't do anything from then on.

[rodstares]

Oddly, it also seems to run more smoothly and the injector timing gets closer if I turn off one bank of LPG injectors. Maybe the petrol injectors kick back on when I shut down the lpg injectors?

[Gilbertd]

They will, when you turn off the LPG injectors the petrol injectors fire instead. It sounds like there is enough gas there to run 3 cylinders but not all 6.

[LPGC]

It's probably the earlier Emer Bat reducer rated at 175kw 235hp which doesn't always have a pressure adjuster so pressure can be fixed at 0.9 bar. The later small Emer reducers are very similar to OMVL CPRs but the earlier reducer is different. All the Emer stuff can wear Emer Bat stickers.

If this were an old V8 with redine around 3000rpm you might more easily get away with 0.9 bar and your current injectors because such an engine might have petrol injector pulse duration of 5ms at idle and 30ms at peak load, so gas injector duration between 7ms (what you last reported gas injector duration was at idle) and 40ms would be a multiplier of 1.4 falling to 1.3. But on this engine you'll probably need higher pressure or higher flowing injectors for good results.. and since pressure seems to fall away to even lower than 0.9 bar under even low loads it's the reducer you should be thinking about changing.

There are things you can try with the current components.
Even if there isn't a pressure adjustment screw it may be possible to remove the reducer front cover to shim the spring, fit a stronger spring or fit an additional spring inside the existing one (like an old race engine double valve spring setup).
Or without taking anything to bits, you could try setting the ECU's reference pressure to 0.8 bar. Setting reference pressure to 0.8 bar will usually (behind the scenes) set the pressure at which the system switches back to petrol to around 0.4 bar, or (depending on the software you've got) you may be able to manually adjust the switchback pressure - have a look through the software screens because switchback pressure setting isn't always on the same screen as the reference pressure setting.
If you lower reference pressure to 0.8 bar (0.9 bar if that's the minimum pressure software will allow you to set) the numbers in the map will have to increase. It may be a better idea to do that manually than by resetting the ECU and running autocalibration because autocal with these settings is likely to cause the engine to stall before autocal completes.

What's the current reference pressure and what's the range of the numbers in the map before you start making adjustments?