The c-max conversion

[lukie]

sadly board quota has been reached, but here's a photo of the recent c-max I did

http://www.dropbox.com/s/2xadtrhlivtma7 ... 8%20pm.jpg

happy to hear any thought's good or bad

the superseal plug going to the map sensor is a little tight, and when I got the car the engine cover was missing not just removed for convenience

I know the ECU isn't in the best place but I was struggling with that

[Gilbertd]

Board quota was reached about 2 years ago. Rather than putting the URL for the picture in your post, if you put [ i m g ] before the link and [ / i m g ] after it (but without the spaces) it will display in your post.

[lukie]

Switch inside Car


ECU Mounting


Full Engine bay



Injectors Close Up



Reg and Flashlube



Throttle Body

[mat_fenwick]

As the URL isn't directly to the image source (but rather a Dropbox page showing the image) you'll need to right click on the picture and select Copy Image Location to paste between the [img] tabs

[lukie]

Got there in the end, reasonable sized photo's showing all the front end, must take one of the bumper where the filler is

[Gilbertd]

You may be able to see them but we can't. I just tried copying and pasting the url you are linking to and dropbox says that I need to be signed in. I usually upload to photobucket and just link straight to there.

[lukie]

You may be able to see them but we can't. I just tried copying and pasting the url you are linking to and dropbox says that I need to be signed in. I usually upload to photobucket and just link straight to there.

Just tried, Internet explorer, firefox and iphone safari all is ok with the photo's, just shows up as it should, will move the photo's to photobucket and try again, thanks for your feedback

[john_d]

u see them as they are in ur cache

[lukie]

[Gilbertd]

That's better. Looks a neat job but the only comment I have is that it will fail inspection on the insulated crimp connectors. They should all be soldered which is difficult on that type, better to use the proper W crimp type and then solder. The ones you have used don't give a reliable long term connection either.

[lukie]

That's better. Looks a neat job but the only comment I have is that it will fail inspection on the insulated crimp connectors. They should all be soldered which is difficult on that type, better to use the proper W crimp type and then solder. The ones you have used don't give a reliable long term connection either.

thank you for your feedback, I will look into the alternative connector's in the morning I think I have some W crimp type that came with the kit, oddly the battery connectors I used were the ones from the box which I soldered

[Tubbs]

Soldered and heat shrinked actually.
You can use normal crimp clips. Just heat the red bit up with a lighter. Pull it off. Put tinned wire in clamp down with pliers. Solder the connection and slide your heat shrink over the top.
If you pop into maplins you can buy the plastic covers.

[classicswede]

Of slightly more concern and being a bit picky the tension on the 025 sensor wire will cause you problems. Either adjust the route of the cable, extend the cable or move the sensor closer to the cable to take off the tension.

[Tubbs]

Never noticed that !
I have however noticed that the ecu is flat and is going to get water in it you could do with taping the boots to the plugs and where the loom exits.
A few other points to note :-
The king Eco isn't a sequential ecu. You may actually find that it puts the k light on in the next few thousand miles.
The petrol map sensor is down the bottom of the manifold. It's better to fit multipoint branches above it in the manifold cylinder runners. Or you run the risk of soaking the map sensor in flashlube and causing spurious readings back to the ecu. I have only discovered this issue recently myself.

[lukie]

Never noticed that !
I have however noticed that the ecu is flat and is going to get water in it you could do with taping the boots to the plugs and where the loom exits.
A few other points to note :-
The king Eco isn't a sequential ecu. You may actually find that it puts the k light on in the next few thousand miles.
The petrol map sensor is down the bottom of the manifold. It's better to fit multipoint branches above it in the manifold cylinder runners. Or you run the risk of soaking the map sensor in flashlube and causing spurious readings back to the ecu. I have only discovered this issue recently myself.

the ecu isn't in the best place I always thought that myself, but space is limited under there with the exhaust manifold at the back where all the free space is, the ecu is bolted to a fuse box cover which is angled downwards towards to floor so shouldn't cause problems, I'll have a look at the boots to see if I can make them any better without making them look poor, the car is my wife's personal car so I can keep my eye on it

first time I have used a 4cyl king system don't normally fit anything less than 6cyl again will keep my eye on the K light situation any reason as to why it would throw the light on (rich / lean running ?)
the multipoint flashlube, would it be ok the put the inlet's opposite the lpg inlet

[billynoband]

May I be pedantic and say how much I disagree with soldering any electrical connection when it comes to anything that vibrates or has sudden shocks. We learnt a long time ago in generator building that a joint which vibrates will last if crimped properly on multi strand cable. The advice came from the alternator makers themselves (mecc-alte) originally and our eldest members of staff used to tutt if the younger ones soldered anything on a generator other than the windings where you had no choice.
Anyway, I don't make the rules. Won't make a blind bit of difference on a car if soldered or crimped properly. If people use those cheap crimpers from the motorist shops then they should solder as well.

[Tubbs]

It makes a difference to wether it adheres to the code of practice though. Because it clearly states soldered and heat shrinked....
In the marine sector it's frowned upon. You have to use crimps. And ratchet crimpers. Which are Lloyd's approved ...