Car Will not rev?

[Paul Smith]

Hi
Hope you can help I am new to the forum as i have just purchased a MG ZR 1.8 120 dual fuel (from factory) only the LPG wont work correctly.

The car drives fine on petrol as it should and will switch to LPG when warm and revving over 2k rpm then stays in LPG but will only idle if you touch the throttle it goes to 200 back to 800 rpm back to idle about 950 rpm.

It is a Landi-Renzo IGSystem (IGS2 PRV)

If your driving petrol and changes it to LPG then you get whip lash lol

Nice to meet you all and Hello

Thanks

Paul

[rossko]

Convinced its 100% on petrol? LPG will show up wonky ignition that isn't very evident on petrol.

Sounds like lack of fuel flow though.

Consider filling the tank.
Consider routine filter(s) renewal.
After that, it's fault-finding e.g. gummy solenoids or (gas) distributor, fulty regulator etc.

What did the previous owner have to say about LPG?

[Paul Smith]

Its dedinitely running sweet as on petrol. The previous owner just said they were unsure why it didn't work but had been quoted 600 to replace it all.

I thought the same as you about maybe the fuel not getting through. Are the filters on lpg found within the vaporizer?
Where is a good place to buy new filter/s?
thanks

Paul

[rossko]

but had been quoted 600 to replace it all.

It may come to that. Expertise and support for IGS is rare, I don't know much about them.

Don't overlook silly things like a pipe below sqaushed flat by a sleeping policeman, although that's unlikely on a from-new conversion.

I wasn't being flippant about putting something in the tank - do not rely on the dashboard lights.

Are the filters on lpg found within the vaporizer?

Usually incorporated in the solenoid valve on or near the vap. Something like this perhaps, it's quite small.
http://www.landirenzo-shop.de/shop/category_13/Filter
You probably wao't have the can-style vapour filter.

[classicswede]

Most common issue is dirt in the distributor. I'd give it all a very good clean out and check condition or all teh hoses etc.

As already said make sure teh tank is full to start with.

[bxman]

Hi

http://www.centralgarageadwick.co.uk/landirenzo.htm
clain to have expertise with this system.

http://autogas-lpg.co.uk
have a good selection of filter elements they carry a good stock and I have found them to helpful.
if you dislike mobiles try 0121 439 8035


http://www.centralgarageadwick.co.uk/do ... ochure.pdf
is a good guide to the system and should show what you are looking for.

hope it helps
I have to thank our friend google for the IG system leads.
cheers Patrick

[Paul Smith]

Thank you for all the replies so far.

Looks like i have a few things to try. I have tried to fill the LPG tank but it would only take 49pence worth so i am assuming it is full.

I will have a play over the weekend and report back

Thanks

Paul

[Gilbertd]

I have tried to fill the LPG tank but it would only take 49pence worth so i am assuming it is full.

Not necessarily, the inlet non-return valve in the tank could be stuck or the float operated shut off valve could be stuck.

[Paul Smith]

How can I check these parts in the tank? (safely)

[rossko]

What does the mechanical level mounted on the tank say? It's not failsafe but its a clue.

The first check I would make is to loosen the union at the front solenoid to see if liquid rather than vapour comes out. To do it safely, you need outside work area, and some would say goggles, gauntlets, cordon off etc. What should come out is just the contents of the front-rear pipe as the tank outlet should be closed when not running, but never trust "should" as you know you have a fault somewhere.

[Paul Smith]

Hi sorry for the lack of response but i have contracted a mutated more serious man flu, so will update as soon as i am fighting fit again. lol

[Paul Smith]

what i have noticed whilst i recover from man flu, is when you turn the LPG on and the engine is up to temp it will not switch over until you go over 2k rpm is this normal. Once over 2k rpm it drops to idle and won't rev.

[Paul Smith]

It's been a while but here is an update. I have had it checked and all people seem to try and do is sell me a new kit. However, I did speak with someone who said it sounded to them like the dual stepper motors. So yesterday I took them out clean them and as a result she now fluctuates at idle but will rev to 2k but no more than that. Also if I leave both of them unplugged it seems no different?

[classicswede]

I think to be fair replacing the front end would be your best bet. Those systems never run 100% on gas and are right pain.

A full strip down and clean of the steppers is a good idea but I have a feeling your problem could maybe be the reducer. Trouble is it is easy spend a lot of money on those system and still not have it working right.

As to http://www.centralgarageadwick.co.uk/landirenzo.htm my best advice to you would be to stay well away from that place. I've had a lot of issues with them over the years. There are certanly a number of far more competant installers that would have a chance of repairing the system but I have a feeling a front end replacment would be your better bet.

[LPGC]

It's been a while but here is an update. I have had it checked and all people seem to try and do is sell me a new kit.

I did write another reply but it hasn't appeared (some of my comments regarding whom not to approach were strong and although I didn't mention names it was easy to work out who I was talking about) I hope the mods don't mind me posting on this thread again! I know Dai at Classicswede has the same views as me.

I have a complete working IG system that I removed from a Volvo V70 I once had. The Volvo ran fine with the system but sometimes had a surge at idle. I put this down to the way the IG system works and how the idle control valve works on the Volvo. At the time I didn't have the interface for the IG system but I got the interface later so have it now. Dai might remember me removing it from my Volvo several years ago?

I wouldn't spend much on fixing the IG system if I were you but I do have a full set of working IG components, stepper distributor, reducer, ECU, etc. Could diagnose and repair your system using the second hand parts I have here - Not saying would be free but may be the cheapest option even though not the best? I'm not far from one of the places someone advised you to go after finding them on Google...

Simon
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk

[LPGC]

I think to be fair replacing the front end would be your best bet. Those systems never run 100% on gas and are right pain.

A full strip down and clean of the steppers is a good idea but I have a feeling your problem could maybe be the reducer. Trouble is it is easy spend a lot of money on those system and still not have it working right.

As to http://www.centralgarageadwick.co.uk/landirenzo.htm my best advice to you would be to stay well away from that place. I've had a lot of issues with them over the years. There are certanly a number of far more competant installers that would have a chance of repairing the system but I have a feeling a front end replacment would be your better bet.

Agreed entirely with Dai at Classicswede.

Posted two minutes ago that I do have a full set of working IG components that I took off my own vehicle a few years ago and could diagnose / repair using those components for a cheap fix. Bet Dai remembers me discussing it with him at the time now? I'm a few miles from central garage.

[LPGC]

Hi Paul,

I received your PM. Unfortunately I cannot reply to PM's on this forum - Apparently there is a complication with the forum that means if someone joins the forum but doesn't post often enough when they've just joined, only one site administrator can then approve that member for PMs etc. That administrator is never around.

You can contact me by finding my email address and telephone number on my website.

Hope to hear,

Simon
www.Lpgc.co.uk

[Paul Smith]

A massive thanks to LPGC for helping me resolve this issue. 2 new second hand stepper motors fitted and she drives nicely on the LPG which is brilliant.

Now for the next teething trouble

There are 2 more slighlty less annoying faults with her now.
1st - When i head to work in the morning at about 4am she can take probably 15 miles before she will switch over and even then its when i have stopped at a roundabout for a few seconds then pulled away. I have taken to pulling over once the water temp gauge says warm and i sit there and rev to 3k about 4 times and then she will switch over? Once she switches she seems fine the rest of the day in switching over and drives nicely on the LPG.

2nd - on occassion when i pull up the idle will bounce around - dip rev dip rev dip rev but then if you move a couple of foot she seems to idle ok again?

Not sure if these could be related in any way.

[Paul Smith]

Hi i am definitely having trouble switching to LPG first thing in the morning. It takes forever. Seems fine after the initial switch over

[Gilbertd]

How quickly do you get warm air out of the heater? If quite quickly, check the vaporiser temperature by putting your hand on it as soon as the heater is getting warm, it should be the same temperature. If the heater takes ages then it could be your coolant thermostat or, if the heater is warm but the vap is still cold, you've got either a partial blockage or an air lock in it. When you rev the engine that will cause greater flow through it so it gets up to temperature.

No idea on a factory fit but if the heater temperature is controlled by flap valves (so it always has full flow through it rather than controlled by restricting the flow) and the vap is plumbed in parallel, you might want to try plumbing it in series with the heater.