LPG Discussion Forum

Fantastic,thanks Tubbs.So rather than disconnecting the lambda and obd wires i can just turn off adaptivity?
Do you agree i should drop the reducer pressure a little?

So tomorrow morning i shall drop the reducer pressure.1-1.1bar
Go back to a base map.
Turn off adaptivity.
Set the pressure in the ecu in the config to 1.4bar
Do an auto calibration.
Read the trims and adjust the map adding 10% across the board,reading trims and then adding or subtracting in blocks of 5% making sure to have a nice flow and no gaps?

Im assuming until then im ok driving it on gas?Got to pick the missus up thats all.

No do not set the confit pressure to 1.4 bar set it to 1 or 1.1 bar which will be your operating gas pressure. As tubbs says think of them numbers as an ascending line graph you ideally want an nice smooth line with no big steps or jumps

What ever the actual reducer pressure is at idle you need to tell the ecu via the configuration. So where it says .9 bar. Type in 1.4 bar. It will then come up with a box saying 'thus will affect injection parameters' or something like that. Click ok. You can turn the pressure on the reducer if you so choose.
I've done a lot of jeeps with a 1.4 bar reducer. Can't say I've noticed any problems that would warrant a .4 bar pressure drop. Valtek 30's are a bit slow, so having a higher pressure wouldn't be a bad thing. They shouldn't have to work as hard. Jeeps arnet very particular about much tbh.

Great stuff.So whatever the idle pressure is,set it in the config as such.Got it.Thanks guys.By tomorrow i should be sorted

Just hope the connectivity to the ecu holds up while im driving about.

You using USB or serial ?

USB Tubbs

Edit:Could it have anything to do with a slow latency on the com port?(Laptop end)

This is why we don't use USB I'm afraid. They work but are flaky. Really you shouldn't be addressing a chip through a USB port. There is a reason why the military and big companies like bt / Honeywell all use serial. And it's not because the tech is old. It's because of EEPROM. Cars are native serial. Hence the 16 pin connector. Those PCMCIA card converters work reasonably well. But they are by no means faultless. The USB drivers are flaky. Keep disconnecting and sometimes loose the rpm signal for no apparent reason. No good for the pro converter. So we all run serial ported toughbooks generally.
No engineer worth his salt would even attempt to address a heating control system in a big office block through a USB lead either. You could end up 'bricking' the control mainframe.

Ah balls. I thought I was all tech advanced using USB as we used to use serial ports many moons ago with a crappy old Panasonic lappy that weighed a ton.
I can't see me doing another conversion Anytime soon so if I can get round it using the USB I will. Will have a play with the com port in the device drivers settings and see if I can get a happy medium.

Yes. I still got the crappy Panasonic toughbook that weighs a ton with a serial port. But it doesn't get broken. And they have a 9 hr battery life. Bit better than my original one. It's got wifi and everything. !

Tubbs wrote:What ever the actual reducer pressure is at idle you need to tell the ecu via the configuration. So where it says .9 bar. Type in 1.4 bar. It will then come up with a box saying 'thus will affect injection parameters' or something like that. Click ok. You can turn the pressure on the reducer if you so choose.
I've done a lot of jeeps with a 1.4 bar reducer. Can't say I've noticed any problems that would warrant a .4 bar pressure drop. Valtek 30's are a bit slow, so having a higher pressure wouldn't be a bad thing. They shouldn't have to work as hard. Jeeps arnet very particular about much tbh.

Second Tubbs!

Tubbs wrote:Yes. I still got the crappy Panasonic toughbook that weighs a ton with a serial port. But it doesn't get broken. And they have a 9 hr battery life. Bit better than my original one. It's got wifi and everything. !

Im using a Hp tc4400 at the minute but wouldn't mind upgrading to a nice toughbook

Tubbs wrote:What ever the actual reducer pressure is at idle you need to tell the ecu via the configuration. So where it says .9 bar. Type in 1.4 bar. It will then come up with a box saying 'thus will affect injection parameters' or something like that. Click ok. You can turn the pressure on the reducer if you so choose.
I've done a lot of jeeps with a 1.4 bar reducer. Can't say I've noticed any problems that would warrant a .4 bar pressure drop. Valtek 30's are a bit slow, so having a higher pressure wouldn't be a bad thing. They shouldn't have to work as hard. Jeeps arnet very particular about much tbh.

Just not sure why when we all know this kit is way more capable than this particular engine you would run the reducer so near red line it's max rating is 1.5bar but it would never sustain that under load. So therefore the ecu would make a map expecting 1.4 bar but not be getting it I used 1 to 1.1 bar as an example of a much more sustainable stable pressure setting so the car will be running at the pressure that the map was made for if that makes sence. We all know the injectors are 3 ohm so will react slowly and so on but on this motor there more than adequate

Even at 1.4 bar it wouldn't be taxed under load even on full chat. The only thing it may throw up is pressure overshoot, but I doubt it

Why risk it

Just to see what will happen and why are we splitting hairs over .3 bar of gas pressure ? Or 4.35 psi to be prescise

Sorry I'm not I'm just trying to give the man the best advice as possible I'm really not trying to undermine you in any way shape or form just in my experiance which I'm sure is as vast as your own a component running at part capacity will last longer than something running at constant peak. And at midway there is adjustment if needed up and down not necessarily now but in the future as the components become clogged with dirty gas / begin to wear

Tubbs wrote:Just to see what will happen and why are we splitting hairs over .3 bar of gas pressure ? Or 4.35 psi to be prescise

Tubbs just out of curiosity, If you put the pressure of what the vapouriser is set at on the config settings, doesn't the map then Calibrate it's self up for the pressure you've set in the config?

Yes if you set it in the config for let's say 1.1 but then crank it up to 1.4 the ecu will adjust the injection parameters to suit 1.1 bar but will then be getting too much gas as the pressure is higher so for every time the injector is open more gas will flow through because of the increased pressure. If it is set for 1.1 and run at 1.1 it uses parameters to suit 1.1 so is better likewise 1.4 or whatever other pressure your whim takes u on

Positive pressure single stage diaphragm type vaporizer-regulator, compensated, with water-gas heat exchanger and internal overpressure valve. Available in two different versions, ZETA N (standard) and ZETA S (super). Extremely compact with limited overall dimensions.
All the LPG regulators are homologated according to the EEC directives 67R-01.

100ZETA/S
Use: suitable for vehicles with catalyst, fuel injection
First stage regulation pressure: 1.4 bars
Version ZETA/S: up to 250 KW

It's a zeta s. Zavoli reckon its a 1.4 bar ?

Lpg Monkey wrote:Yes if you set it in the config for let's say 1.1 but then crank it up to 1.4 the ecu will adjust the injection parameters to suit 1.1 bar but will then be getting too much gas as the pressure is higher so for every time the injector is open more gas will flow through because of the increased pressure. If it is set for 1.1 and run at 1.1 it uses parameters to suit 1.1 so is better likewise 1.4 or whatever other pressure your whim takes u on

But why set to 1.1 or 1 bar, when if the manufacturers will say it will run 1.4 bar and then you would have less mapping to do and ironing out hesitations during accelerations, as you've just said the map will be adjusted to 1.4 bar worth of pressure instead of 1.1 or 1.

As forrestspeedshop his map would be set up for 0.9 bar worth of pressure as the car was being hesitant at idle going to 1200rpm but above that it's fine??