LPG Discussion Forum

The palladio has an adjustable output between 1 and 1.5 bar so no it won't output 1.7bar. As you know my pressure is 1.36bar but my software says 1 bar that's if I'm looking at the correct part. There is a screenshot above a few posts showing 1 bar.

After that adjustment I made it's changed from both codes coming on to only one for bank 2 popping up. This is only after short testing of about 20 miles.

Have you tried to adjust it to 1.7?

Is your reference pressure (setting in software) currently set to 1 bar or 1.3 bar?

LPGC wrote: Wed Aug 25, 2021 9:01 pm Have you tried to adjust it to 1.7?

Is your reference pressure (setting in software) currently set to 1 bar or 1.3 bar?

No I haven't. It seams my lean issue is under very light load.

The software is at 1bar.

Is this it? Where it says reducer 1 bar.

The 1 bar is your reference setting (what your setting the software to base the map on).
The 3.48 bar value there is the pressure currently in the system at that point in time.

Brian_H wrote: Wed Aug 25, 2021 11:03 pm The 1 bar is your reference setting (what your setting the software to base the map on).
The 3.48 bar value there is the pressure currently in the system at that point in time.

Thank you. Do I need to change the reference setting to 1.36 bar then? That's the idle pressure.

Normally yes, though Simon would be better to advise, I'd read what he's said above to suggest 1.36 is still too low, it may be advisable to see if you can increase reducer pressure further. Also might be an idea to drain vapouriser if it's been used a while, to do that warm car up fully, loosen vapouriser so it can be turned with the gas outlet to be lowest point with the gas output pipe off and see if you get any gloop coming out of it. Catch it in something and see if that improves it any. Note it will stink if you get it on your hands though and might be very sticky. Might also need a few minutes like that to let as much drain out as possible. Might be nothing there, somewhat depends on the setup you have and the vaporiser.

Just to ve clear, usual advice is set reference pressure to be the usual working pressure shown in the software when running on gas. So if you can get it running at 1.5bar you'd usually set that in software as well.

Thank you.

Yes I don't like it having a lower reference pressure to the actual pressure. So I'm best to start a fresh.

Empty reducer of gunk.

Turn up to higher pressure.

Match the pressure in the software.

Run auto calibration.

Report back and then fine tune from there.

So I should run on petrol for a few days to sort the fuel trims out before the auto calibration.

Depending what diagnostics you have, you may be able to reset the advaptive values which should do the same thing. Nanocom can do it if you have that. Depends what the trims currently show? If they are stuck at 25% on petrol you have a problem there, which may be resolved by clearing them?

My trims are pretty decent so won't need resetting. I have access to snap on diagnostics but don't think I need them atm. Should be good to go by the time I get home.

Does the above sound like a good plan?

Don't think snap on can do the adaptive values, think you need land rover specific kit for that (Nanocom definitely can do it, Hawkeye etc not sure). But will be fine for reading codes etc.

Should be a plan - long as you save what you currently have you can always reload that anyway?

Ah ok. I don't have the land rover specific gear unfortunately.

Yes got my current settings saved. Would just have to lower the pressure as well. Hopefully this new setup will be better so no need to revert back.

Bone9 wrote: Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:00 pm Ah ok. I don't have the land rover specific gear unfortunately.

Yes got my current settings saved. Would just have to lower the pressure as well. Hopefully this new setup will be better so no need to revert back.

You probabbly won't need them, particually if your able to run on petrol beforehand and can see the trims being somewhere near right. I think it helped on mine when it had a dodgy (cheap pattern part) MAF fitted by the previous owner which was screwing around with the fuel trims.

Simon did suggest 1.7 was possible with your reducer, so it should go a bit higher than 1.5 with any luck. Mine (same vehicle but older than yours) is running on 1.1 bar but without nozzles fitted to the injectors as per Simon's spec, that works well (thats with the old OMVL superlight blue injectors that are no longer made now).

Interesting not using any nozzles. What does you map look like?

It's kme Nevo I'm using, calibrated by Simon. Think it depends on the injectors your using if you can get away without nozzles, some are well matched in that state, others not so much. I'll have a look and see what I can see from the software tomorrow as far as the map goes.

Awesome cheers buddy.

The V34 injectors are narrower internally than (say) OMVL injectors. The V34's will flow about as much as OMVL's with 2.7 nozzles, the OMVLs without nozzles will flow a bit more than having 3mm nozzles.

All good advice and ideas above.

Simply setting reference pressure to 1.3 or 1.5 bar would lower the numbers in the calibration table... But you should also increase reducer pressure a bit if you can.

The 3.5 bar actual pressure reading might point to a reducer or heating water flow problem if such high reading re-occurs.

Sorry the late reply, I'm on holiday.

Hmm I'm sure it's constantly high when running on petrol.

I'll clean it out, increase the pressure, run auto calibration then report back.

Thanks.

Petrol fuel trims are currently...

Short term
B1 -1.6
B2 -1.6

Long term
B1 -3.9
B2 -4.7