Paid for itself by now then. Glad all is good. Be terrible if it wasn't and I was putting photies of it on the netantimony wrote:I recognise that engine bay!!Tubbs wrote:Heres one of mine...
Ive used straws to eliminate any problems with erratic idle, stalling at junctions, lag between idle and out of idle etc. I have also managed to get all the covers back on and put the ecu in the ecu box. But guess what ? It took me 4 days, i changed the crankcase ventilation valve whilst i had the inlet manifold off to drill and position the straws straight over the top of the inlet valves. I did charge £1250 though.
15,000 miles since it was converted (10 months ago) and not a single problem
yet
328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
In fairness, I should have pointed out, when I took the car to them it had an aftermarket induction kit fitted with a metal engine bay divider plate (to help it get a cold-air feed). I did tell them that I intended to remove it, but I guess they forgot because they secured the ECU to it. When I removed the induction kit and plate and fitted a standard box there was nowhere left in that area to secure it, so i just left it loose near the fuse box. It's not going anywhere, it's quite well wedged in. There's not enough slack in the loom to secure it to the bulkhead.classicswede wrote:Cheap job there Tubbs.
Looking at the OP's pics the install is a mess
ECU not secured
No vapour filter?
6 injectors in line rather they a Y connection
LPG pipes rubbing on inlet manifold
and where did the engine cover go?
A very rough looking job did they actualy map the system of just do an autocalibrate?
I hadn't noticed the lack of filter, I should get one.
When I did my Alternative Fuel Company kit, I did it with a 1-to-2 filter, I'll get another and then the injectors won't be in line anymore...
You're right, the inlet cover did go missing. It was there when I took it in...
By the way, I couldn't get on this forum most of last week. After my post on Monday, I tried every day (except yesterday) several times on several computers but it said "WWW.lpgforums.co.uk could not be found"... Not sure why that is, because it seems others have been able to get on...
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Simon, I've tried to answer your questions & comments below, this is the first time I have been able to access http://www.lpgforum.co.uk (not sure why) since last Monday, thanks:

The "extra inj filter" was set one notch left of the centre. Now switched off.
Thanks again,
Ross
(photo added)LPGC wrote:Recently fixed some obvious mistakes on several vehicles from a certain installer mentioned in the thread (not from anyone who's posted but mentioned in the thread). As others have said in other threads recently, shame because they used to do decent installs that didn't have these problems - Same company name, different people doing the installs.
What company's sticker is on the front of the AEB2568? The brand will tell us which injectors can be selected.
This is how it looks at ~4000 rpm, full throttle.You've noticed your Beemer ticks over with around 2.5ms petrol injection. What do those petrol injection figures go up to on cam (4000rpm-ish) at full load? Not sure if they're the same but the Ultragas injectors I've seen look like Valtek type 30, which isn't a very fast opening, linear or great flowing injector - Wouldn't be happy fitting them on most Beemers for reasons related to that 2.5ms tickover which I'm going to explain. Even with those injectors though, we can get you running OK but the system might need to do a petrol addition or switch back to petrol at high loads/revs.... Explanation: LPG injectors need to inject enough gas to properly fuel the engine at full power and maximum revs. At 6000rpm petrol injectors have a possible injection window of 20ms. In this window they must be able to open, flow fuel into the engine and close again in time for the next injection cycle, and because of this most petrol injectors go up to 16ms open duration on an engine that does a bit over 6000rpm. Most engines tickover with around 3m/s petrol injection. There are a few reasons why your BMW might tickover at 2.5ms, including (a) it might tickover efficiently (they do with that forced air tickover system), (b) it might do an extra injection pulse, (c) the petrol injectors might flow more or be fed with a higher pressure than most manufacturers would fit on the same size engine. If c is the only one true out of abc then your maximum petrol injection pulse won't go to 16ms and you won't have as much of a problem with poor injectors if it calibrated differently. LPG injectors that aren't great need to have large nozzle sizes and run at high pressures to be able to inject enough fuel within the 16ms at high loads, but this can mean they don't need to open for as long as the petrol injectors at low loads. For an LPG system to accurately measure gas into an engine, LPG injectors need to open for at least as long as the petrol injectors. But, on top of the last point, if LPG injectors are too slow to open or close, then it becomes difficult to accurately dose LPG into the engine at low LPG injector open durations. If you have Valtek type 30's, they won't work well at low injection pulse times. If the last two points are true, the way to improve matters is to lower pressure and/or reduce nozzle sizes. This might mean the LPG system won't flow enough fuel for top end power, but with your system you can add a petrol addition or it will switch back to petrol when LPG injection time exceeds the injection window time.

Yes, I should have at least kept them so I could test them. It wasn't the heater circuit code, it was something like "out of range".'Lambda error' can mean many things. If the car was running ok on petrol, no MIL light before the conversion, then unless the 'lambda error' was due to the lambda probe heater circuit, I suspect you've changed the lambda probes in vain.
I knew this wasn't correct, but it did allow the "idle on petrol" setting to catch the idle before it stopped. I have since changed this, I have enriched to 130 in the 2.0 & 2.5 boxes for 500 and 1000 rpm. I also clicked the "ignore extra injections" box on the last page. This does make the petrol times even lower (~2.3 ms), but, it doesn't stall anymore. It does still miss on idle though.You've changed the 2.0ms load figures to 0 across the entire rev range. This won't be correct - If it runs better with the zeroes, I suspect one or a combination of the following: you have the extra injection filter set wrong / pressure too high / nozzle sizes too large / injectors not linear enough for vehicle / wrong injectors selected in software.
I just wanted to see if it was running rich or lean, I know it isn't part of the control (except through the car ECU).Connecting the lambda probes to the LPG system won't change anything.
Sorry, I didn't write that clearly, I know it that 0:6 was all petrol, but just trying to explain that it got progressively better the more cylinders were on petrol, no matter which ones they were.You mention the diagnosis window. I think that the 6:0, 3:3 and 0:6 that you mention is you switching individual cylinders between LPG and petrol. On the last setting you tried, you turned all cylinders back to petrol.. Since it runs OK on petrol there's no wonder it ran better on 0:6 !
I think they're about as close to the head as possible, but the hoses after the injectors are fairly long. Photos now added.First thing to check: As someone else has said, the first thing to do is check to see where they've installed the manifold injector nozzles (spuds). If they're too far up the manifold, you will always have problems at low rpm, especially if your Beemer has the forced tickover air system.
This was set to 2 banks. "bank 2 trim" was set to "6". One day it needed me to change this to "15" to make the 2 petrol injection times even. The next day it needed "-20". In the end I just changed it back to "0" and actually it seems to sort itself out pretty well. Sometimes they are different, but usually about the same.Second thing to check: A lot of BMW six cylinders (including yours from memory) are managed as two banks of three cylinders - like a V6 they have two primary lambda's. The software should therefore be set to two banks. Being a straight 6, this is sometimes overlooked and the installer leaves the setting at one bank. If overlooked there will always be fueling problems. Check in the 'Lambda' screen for 'number of banks'.
The MJ injectors I have are 3.0 mm drilled, they were on a 3.0 mk III Supra, then 4 of them were on a 318is.Regarding the MJ injectors, just so we know, what nozzle size do they have (if not sure, what vehicle were they fitted on before)?
It changes depending on load, on idle I think 1.2 bar... I shall double check.What is the set working pressure of the system?
I-PLUS injectors (whatever they are!)What injectors are selected?
My car hasn't got an OBD2 port, don't I need this for the "acceleration enrichment" control?Where is the extra injection filter indicator? Start with enabled and in middle.
Where is the 'acceleration injection enrichment' indicator? Start with fully to right.
The "extra inj filter" was set one notch left of the centre. Now switched off.
Thanks again,
Ross
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
What do you mean by "straws"?Tubbs wrote: Ive used straws to eliminate any problems with erratic idle, stalling at junctions, lag between idle and out of idle etc. I have also managed to get all the covers back on and put the ecu in the ecu box. But guess what ? It took me 4 days, i changed the crankcase ventilation valve whilst i had the inlet manifold off to drill and position the straws straight over the top of the inlet valves. I did charge £1250 though.
Thanks
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Thanks for your replyTubbs wrote:Honestly im struggling to believe that Edward is prepared to put his name to that. Because i certainly wouldn't let that out the door.
I think its probably fair to assume that the injector spud positions are incorrect. Just judging by the rest of the install.
However that doesn't solve the OP's issues. You need to take it back and tell them you are not happy with it and get them to deal with it. Its not your responsibility. You paid for a job and the job has not not had a satisfactory outcome.
I'll get some photos tomorrow showing where the nozzles go in the manifold. They are really close to the petrol injectors though...
I know it should be better than this, but I've already taken it back twice and it has come back either no better or worse. I would rather sort it out myself if I can because I don't really want them working on my lovely car anymore...
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
I might fit my KME vaporiser then.classicswede wrote:There is nothing stricking there for causing the problem but with a little inside knoledge I would say the cause of the problem is the reducer.
That COPY that is fitted has been the cause of similar running problems on other cars. I think even one or two have posted up on here.
I would ask them to sort out the mentioned problems and change that peice of @!## they fitted for a propper vapouriser.
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Rossjp,
Just noticed you posted a pic of calibration screen.
The picture of the calibration screen you posted is for full load, which isn't generally ideal for our purposes but in this case does give us some insight. The working pressure is set at 0.95 bar in the ECU, yet at full load you have an actual pressure of 1.15 bar. This is not correct. At light loads (tickover especially), the actual pressure can be expected to be higher than 1.15 bar. The ECU can of course correct for pressure, but corrects accurately only to a certain difference between actual and working pressures.
I suspect that (A) actual working pressure is too high. (B) the difference in actual pressure versus ECU set working pressure add to the problem. (C) Injector performance at the low open durations that will be required due to (A) and (B) will not be good enough.
The above paragraph in other words: Given the size of the injector nozzles and pressure they're supplied with they will flow too much gas for the size of the engine. If they flow too much gas they need to open for less time. If they open for too little time and don't perform well when only opening for low times you will have problems at tickover.
You can't make a large hole (injector nozzle) smaller (you can't put an extra stitch in them
), but you can reduce actual pressure and you can re-calibrate the ECU for lower pressure.
Before proceeding: Does the car have (very) similar power on LPG as on petrol at full load? (the lamda's are not connected so we don't know if mixture is correct). At full load you have 14.53ms of petrol injection time. If the car pulls similarly at full load on petrol or LPG, then the mixture, and hence gas injection time of 13.02ms will likely be somewhere in the correct range (but at 1.15bar pressure). Since LPG injection time is lower than petrol injection time at full load, it will run better if actual working pressure is reduced (adjust pressure at the reducer).
Advice: Change all those gas/petrol settings so the engine runs on LPG all the time it is switched to LPG (no switching back to petrol at tickover, no petrol additions etc). Adjust actual working pressure (on the actual reducer with an allen key) whilst ticking over on LPG until you see pressure at 1bar on the screen (keep checking actual pressure on screen whilst adjusting). If it won't tickover on LPG, get someone to sit in the car and hold at constant 2000rpm whilst you adjust pressure. Leave working pressure in ECU as it is at 0.95 bar. Don't confuse set working pressure with actual measured pressure. Working pressure is at the top of the screen, actual pressure is at bottom of screen. Re-calibrate. Since you're not as familiar with the system as us, you will probably be better off noting all settings from the changeover screen, resetting the ECU, entering all the same info back into changeover screen and running auto-calibration. Do the last sentence after you have adjusted the pressure on the reducer and cleared any vehicle fault codes.
[quote="classicswede"]
There is nothing stricking there for causing the problem but with a little inside knoledge I would say the cause of the problem is the reducer.
Like Dai says, there might be a problem with the reducer (in your case causing the output pressure to be too high). If that was your only problem you might have messed up the calibration by trying to adjust with a broken reducer.
Simon.
www.Lpgc.co.uk
Just noticed you posted a pic of calibration screen.
The picture of the calibration screen you posted is for full load, which isn't generally ideal for our purposes but in this case does give us some insight. The working pressure is set at 0.95 bar in the ECU, yet at full load you have an actual pressure of 1.15 bar. This is not correct. At light loads (tickover especially), the actual pressure can be expected to be higher than 1.15 bar. The ECU can of course correct for pressure, but corrects accurately only to a certain difference between actual and working pressures.
I suspect that (A) actual working pressure is too high. (B) the difference in actual pressure versus ECU set working pressure add to the problem. (C) Injector performance at the low open durations that will be required due to (A) and (B) will not be good enough.
The above paragraph in other words: Given the size of the injector nozzles and pressure they're supplied with they will flow too much gas for the size of the engine. If they flow too much gas they need to open for less time. If they open for too little time and don't perform well when only opening for low times you will have problems at tickover.
You can't make a large hole (injector nozzle) smaller (you can't put an extra stitch in them
Before proceeding: Does the car have (very) similar power on LPG as on petrol at full load? (the lamda's are not connected so we don't know if mixture is correct). At full load you have 14.53ms of petrol injection time. If the car pulls similarly at full load on petrol or LPG, then the mixture, and hence gas injection time of 13.02ms will likely be somewhere in the correct range (but at 1.15bar pressure). Since LPG injection time is lower than petrol injection time at full load, it will run better if actual working pressure is reduced (adjust pressure at the reducer).
Advice: Change all those gas/petrol settings so the engine runs on LPG all the time it is switched to LPG (no switching back to petrol at tickover, no petrol additions etc). Adjust actual working pressure (on the actual reducer with an allen key) whilst ticking over on LPG until you see pressure at 1bar on the screen (keep checking actual pressure on screen whilst adjusting). If it won't tickover on LPG, get someone to sit in the car and hold at constant 2000rpm whilst you adjust pressure. Leave working pressure in ECU as it is at 0.95 bar. Don't confuse set working pressure with actual measured pressure. Working pressure is at the top of the screen, actual pressure is at bottom of screen. Re-calibrate. Since you're not as familiar with the system as us, you will probably be better off noting all settings from the changeover screen, resetting the ECU, entering all the same info back into changeover screen and running auto-calibration. Do the last sentence after you have adjusted the pressure on the reducer and cleared any vehicle fault codes.
[quote="classicswede"]
There is nothing stricking there for causing the problem but with a little inside knoledge I would say the cause of the problem is the reducer.
Like Dai says, there might be a problem with the reducer (in your case causing the output pressure to be too high). If that was your only problem you might have messed up the calibration by trying to adjust with a broken reducer.
Simon.
www.Lpgc.co.uk
Full time LPG installer
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
Mid Yorkshire
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
Twitter https://twitter.com/AutogasSimon
07816237240
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
Mid Yorkshire
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
Twitter https://twitter.com/AutogasSimon
07816237240
-
classicswede
- Installer
- Posts: 2570
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:56 pm
- Location: North Wales
- Contact:
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Another thing I have noticed in that screenshot.
The gas pressure is set as 0.95 bar in the software but the actual gas pressure is actualy running at 1.15 bar under full load
The software should probably be set to 1.20 bar, not critical but you do want it right if you can.
The gas pressure is set as 0.95 bar in the software but the actual gas pressure is actualy running at 1.15 bar under full load
The software should probably be set to 1.20 bar, not critical but you do want it right if you can.
http://www.classicswede.co.uk/LPG/cat17 ... 10800.aspx
LPG installer Anglesey North Wales
DIY LPG Kits
07824887160
LPG installer Anglesey North Wales
DIY LPG Kits
07824887160
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
I hadn't spotted that either. I will change it.classicswede wrote:Another thing I have noticed in that screenshot.
The gas pressure is set as 0.95 bar in the software but the actual gas pressure is actualy running at 1.15 bar under full load
The software should probably be set to 1.20 bar, not critical but you do want it right if you can.
On the subject of the reducer, on an NA car, can you tell me if I have this the right way round:
The manifold pressure is lowest when the throttle is closed, highest when it is fully open.
The regulator should keep the gas pressure the same relative to the manifold pressure.
So, the regulator should decrease the (absolute) pressure of the gas when thr throttle is wide open.
From memory, the gas pressure is about 1.2 bar on idle - i.e. not much different to full throttle (in the picture). I will check this tomorrow when I can use my laptop again...
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
yes but, also means vacuum is highest when throttle is closed etc, have to be careful about what you are measuringrossjp wrote:The manifold pressure is lowest when the throttle is closed, highest when it is fully open.
Yuprossjp wrote:The regulator should keep the gas pressure the same relative to the manifold pressure.
Nope - absolute pressure will riserossjp wrote:So, the regulator should decrease the (absolute) pressure of the gas when thr throttle is wide open.
That's good. The display on your laptop is relative pressure, not absolute. I don't think 1.2 bar is excessive or unusual.rossjp wrote:From memory, the gas pressure is about 1.2 bar on idle - i.e. not much different to full throttle
www.blazegas.com
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
I wouldn't like to say it definately has "very similar" power, it's a pretty fast car and on gas it's still a pretty fast car. But I don't think I could tell the difference between it running on gas and petrol when flooring it. All way to the red line it pulls fine on full throttle.LPGC wrote:Before proceeding: Does the car have (very) similar power on LPG as on petrol at full load? (the lamda's are not connected so we don't know if mixture is correct). At full load you have 14.53ms of petrol injection time. If the car pulls similarly at full load on petrol or LPG, then the mixture, and hence gas injection time of 13.02ms will likely be somewhere in the correct range (but at 1.15bar pressure). Since LPG injection time is lower than petrol injection time at full load, it will run better if actual working pressure is reduced (adjust pressure at the reducer).
One thing I hadn't noticed is that in the photo it shows the gas times as less than the petrol times - I don't understand this because all of the map is 120 apart from the top left which is 125 - 130. I thought this means the gas injectors are supposed to do 120% of the petrol pulse duration??
Thanks for your pointers, I will follow your suggestions on regulator pressure next time the weather is nice enough to get under the bonnet (which looking at the forecast may be a while). My garage is full of Supra (and has been for the last 2 - 3 years) so my other cars are worked on outdoors...
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Yes, of course, I see why I was wrong... I was even halfway through writing a reply explaining why my statements are correct when I realised they aren't!rossko wrote:yes but, also means vacuum is highest when throttle is closed etc, have to be careful about what you are measuringrossjp wrote:The manifold pressure is lowest when the throttle is closed, highest when it is fully open.
Yuprossjp wrote:The regulator should keep the gas pressure the same relative to the manifold pressure.
Nope - absolute pressure will riserossjp wrote:So, the regulator should decrease the (absolute) pressure of the gas when thr throttle is wide open.
That's good. The display on your laptop is relative pressure, not absolute. I don't think 1.2 bar is excessive or unusual.rossjp wrote:From memory, the gas pressure is about 1.2 bar on idle - i.e. not much different to full throttle
The regulator increases the pressure on full throttle because the manifold pressure has increased (by moving toward atmosphetic pressure)...
Doh
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
The gas firmware applies corrections to the basic map; temp, pressure etc. For example if the nominal pressure was 0.95 and actually measuring 1.2 its going to knock 20% off ...rossjp wrote:One thing I hadn't noticed is that in the photo it shows the gas times as less than the petrol times - I don't understand this because all of the map is 120 apart from the top left which is 125 - 130. I thought this means the gas injectors are supposed to do 120% of the petrol pulse duration??
On the one hand it don't really matter if gas times are shorter or longer than equivalent petrol. On the practical side, we'd expect to see ~100-120% from experience. Much longer and they will run out of opening time at full tilt. Much shorter and they will not be stable at idle (aha?). Never quite the same because they are bigger,clonkier devices.
www.blazegas.com
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
Pretty much why I said lower reducer pressure... If fuelling is correct at full load, and full load is only 13/14ms from LPG injectors (and shorter than petrol injector durations), he can lose some pressure so correct fuelling at idle means longer LPG injector durations (getting around the 'much shorter and they will not be stable at idle that I and Rosko have said in different ways). On the other side of the coin, we've seen full load at 4000rpm, at higher rpm it's possible that pressure will fall off so the installer may have intentionally set reducer pressure higher to allow it to keep pressure at higher loads - But I doubt this 'other side of the coin' is what the installer has done, more likely just got it wrong or the reducer has an issue like Dai at ClassicSwede suggested.rossko wrote:The gas firmware applies corrections to the basic map; temp, pressure etc. For example if the nominal pressure was 0.95 and actually measuring 1.2 its going to knock 20% off ...rossjp wrote:One thing I hadn't noticed is that in the photo it shows the gas times as less than the petrol times - I don't understand this because all of the map is 120 apart from the top left which is 125 - 130. I thought this means the gas injectors are supposed to do 120% of the petrol pulse duration??
On the one hand it don't really matter if gas times are shorter or longer than equivalent petrol. On the practical side, we'd expect to see ~100-120% from experience. Much longer and they will run out of opening time at full tilt. Much shorter and they will not be stable at idle (aha?). Never quite the same because they are bigger,clonkier devices.
Simon
www.Lpgc.co.uk
Full time LPG installer
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
Mid Yorkshire
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
Twitter https://twitter.com/AutogasSimon
07816237240
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
Mid Yorkshire
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
Twitter https://twitter.com/AutogasSimon
07816237240
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
[quote="classicswede"]
No vapour filter?
6 injectors in line rather they a Y connection
[quote]
I spoke with Mint yesterday - they said they don't fit vapour filters to these because the injectors are servicable and they have traced problems to the filters in the past (on other cars).
Regarding the Y-piece, apparently that's the way the instructions for the Ultragas bits says to assemble it.
I would gratefully listen to everyone's opinion on this - it wouldn't be too hard for me to buy a 1-to-2 filter and run the extra bit of pipe if this is best practice...
No vapour filter?
6 injectors in line rather they a Y connection
[quote]
I spoke with Mint yesterday - they said they don't fit vapour filters to these because the injectors are servicable and they have traced problems to the filters in the past (on other cars).
Regarding the Y-piece, apparently that's the way the instructions for the Ultragas bits says to assemble it.
I would gratefully listen to everyone's opinion on this - it wouldn't be too hard for me to buy a 1-to-2 filter and run the extra bit of pipe if this is best practice...
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
We always fit a vapour filter because ...
On some cars we've noted reducers can generate 'coke' on the vapour side - crusty black stuff which can flake off to end up in the injectors. A classic use case for a filter. Seems to be related to the car's coolant temperature; mostly you get brown treacle instead.
We believe a vapor filter canister (even with no element) will act as a cold-climate heavy ends trap, preventing waxy goop getting to the injectors before everything is hot enough to keep it as harmless runny goop.
Y-piece or 2:1 filter seems sensible - but in reality won't make much odds except at very high flows i.e. full tilt. You seem to have problems elsewhere so it ain't gonna be a magic cure?
On some cars we've noted reducers can generate 'coke' on the vapour side - crusty black stuff which can flake off to end up in the injectors. A classic use case for a filter. Seems to be related to the car's coolant temperature; mostly you get brown treacle instead.
We believe a vapor filter canister (even with no element) will act as a cold-climate heavy ends trap, preventing waxy goop getting to the injectors before everything is hot enough to keep it as harmless runny goop.
Y-piece or 2:1 filter seems sensible - but in reality won't make much odds except at very high flows i.e. full tilt. You seem to have problems elsewhere so it ain't gonna be a magic cure?
www.blazegas.com
-
classicswede
- Installer
- Posts: 2570
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:56 pm
- Location: North Wales
- Contact:
Re: 328i on AEB2568 / Ultragas /Mint lpg
No Magic cure. it is just good practice.
Why is it that Ultra gas list a vapour filter as part of the kit contents if they recomend not to fit one?
http://www.autogasgroup.co.uk/Products.aspx?scid=46
Why is it that Ultra gas list a vapour filter as part of the kit contents if they recomend not to fit one?
http://www.autogasgroup.co.uk/Products.aspx?scid=46
http://www.classicswede.co.uk/LPG/cat17 ... 10800.aspx
LPG installer Anglesey North Wales
DIY LPG Kits
07824887160
LPG installer Anglesey North Wales
DIY LPG Kits
07824887160
