here we go DIY LPG INSTALL BY A COMPLETE LPG NOVICE.....

[mat_fenwick]

Daisy chaining is the way to go, extra earths not a bad plan either.

[lpgnovice]

right figured out my iing & now i'm rained off as i'm working on my van outside this bloody weather at this time of year i mean FFS

i'm so close to firing it up, i just have to finish the wiring & fit the petrol cut of alv then i'm DONE half a day maximum

but i have nowhere to work on the damn thing undercover, i'm going to drop a mate an email as he runs a garag not far away from where i livesee if i can work on my van in the corner of his workshop just to button the rest up as the weatherman is'nt promising good dry weather at the moment is he

so fustrating, i wish it would just blow over

if i can find somewhere relitively close to home tomorrow i can GET ER DONE!!!!

[lpgnovice]

good progress today chaps, i have al lthe electrics routed & hooked up in a temprary manner for testing purposes

i have the switch & level gauge on the dash all lighting up woohoo it looks very modern in my old van!

not sure if somthing is amis or not i need to have squizz at the tinley-tech instructions when i have the ignition on & the switch lights up, it shows the tank is full which it is!!! & there is a red light at the end of this row of lights, i'm not sure if this is right yet

this is with the switch in the petrol position buy the way....

not put it in the lpg position yet

i'm knackered so i honestly cant be bothered tonight to upload pics but i'll get a ream on them up tomorrow

today has been a blessing with the weather as it allowed me to route the wiring under the van, i hope its fairly dry-ish tomorrow to get it all finished off & at least starting on lpg, i think i'll be able to get to th point of fiddling with the power valve

any advice / hints/ tips at this crucial stage is greatly appreciated, bloody excited now, i only came in from my van at 10pm, been on it since 9am

itching to get her running on lpg now for sure......defo have a few ciders when she's a running on lpg so exciting

[lpgnovice]

just done a little reading & the red light apparently is the lpg fuel reserve light which is apparently normal to see,

so my mind is eased..........i'm ready to do some testing of my unions, pipe up the low pressure pipes from the vaporizer/reducer, check i am getting lpg gas coming through then i'll hook it all up

i have my digital camea batter on charge so i can do a few vids of the first start up on lpg

bloody-ell i can believe i have got this far in a way........

i'll sleep light tonight!!!! my alarm is set for 7am lol what a nonce eh!!! i cant flippin wait.....

[lpgnovice]

I CANT GET IT TO START OR IDLE AT ALL HELP, I have checked the solinoids etc etc any ideas, its tried to fire a few times but only when i hold the throttle slightly open????

[Tubbs]

if you take the pipe off and energise the solenoid does it flow gas ? You should be able to hear a steady schwooosh and it be pretty constant. Then turn it up a bit so it sounds like SCHWOOSH and turn it down a bit. You have a trimmer switch on the back of the changeover switch that you can set the dose shot with once it sees a rev sense it will carry on flowing gas. Pic of the switch please. And where have you taken the rpm from ?

[lpgnovice]

woohoo, got it working, i have took the rev sence from the - on the ignition coil tubbs, what concerns me now is when the engine cuts out its still flowing gas? as obviously position 1 on my ignition is the switched live, but this is still live when the engine cuts out so the gas still flows

i thought its meant to turn off, maybe i'v not picked the correct witched live?


ANYHOW THE GOOD NEWS IS I HAVE GOT IT TO RUN ON IDLE ON LPG WOOHOO!!!! well chuffed i'm still getting some popping & banging through the exhaust & the odd backfire through the carbs, in the excitmenet & concentration whilst fiddling i have'nt done a vid yet but i will get a vid tomorrow!!!!


i do have a big problom though i cant get it running on petrol now, nothing to do with the lpg setup, i think my mechanical fuel pump has packed up!!! booooo i think this as my float bowls are bone dry & i have a fuel pressure regualtor, fuel pressure gauge & clear glass fuel filter in my engine & i'm getting no fuel pressure soi think the diaphram may have gone a knacker, i have an electric fuel pump setup so i'll get that hooked up tomorrow morning-its all go go go ya know

tubbs i think you are right i do need to adjust the trim screw on the switch a little so its starts instantly when warm

i'm not that sure if my gunsans gas anyliser is working correctly either :O/

my reducer is the m84 bigas, i have been fiddling with the two screws & have managed to get a good even idle sped but its popping & banging at around 2000rpm, then it smooths out until around 3800rpm then pops n bangs again but worse

so more adjustment needed before a test drive i reckon

what do you guys reckon from the sysmtems i've tried to describe

oh the engine seems to be running a bit too warm also

i was thinking of hooking up my electrical fuel pump to the yellow wire that powers the the petrol cut off solinoid, with an inline fuse of course

[Tubbs]

At 2000 rpm just hold the revs there and see if you can even it out so it isnt popping and banging, turn the power valve in until the revs start to die off and then turn it back out until full revs are back again. No more than 2 1/2 turns though. Presume you have a power valve in the line ?
Instead of going off the coil neg, wrap the wire around the king lead 7-10 tight turns and tape it on. The gas shouldnt flow all the time with the engine off. Even with a switched live, its the blue wire that controls all the solenoids and it should only be live when the engine is running and the rev sense is sensed ! Even with the ignition key turned to the on position. Obviously you will have your timed shot of gas for half a sec or so. But nothing after that.

[lpgnovice]

chaps i have been doing some reading & apparntly k&n style free flow filters are not the greatest for an engine running lpg is this correct???

just trying to get a 30mins gap in the rain to fit my electric fuel pump to get fiddling with the van again cor blimey this is dire the weather this year

need to hoax out a wiring diagram i hav on the laptop for wiring an electric fuel pump in proprly as you also want this to strop pumping when the engine cuts out or if involved in a serious accident

bought new fuel pipe also as i thought its prudent to change the pips on it, they are'nt that old, may 3 years but i dont want to be making joints in the ful pip when i fit the lectric pump in place of the mechanical one

i'm just uploading pics so should have some up in a bit!

[john_d]

ive had my piperx on for years and noticed no ill effect.

[lpgnovice]

right i have been having a fiddle with the pulse wire, i cant get it to work correctly, when i hook up my old rev counter to the negative of the coil (puls signal) the rv counter works fine, & if i make the engine cut out the rev counter obviously looses that signal so does'nt see rpms anymore

now when i wound the brown pulse wire around the king lean initialy it worked, i.e when the motor cut out the gas supply stopped but then it wont restart???? WTF, yet if i connect the brown (pulse) to the negative to the coil it works again but as i say, when the motor cuts out the gas flow is still 'a' comin......


another revolation of the last few minutes is my mechanical fuel pump is no working again so the van runs on petrol again, i think whats happening is that it gets hydraulicly locked when the petrol cut off solinoid operates, but as its a mechanical pump driven from the engine of course its still pumping but just pressuring the fuel line then i think the pressure then is stopping the movement of the fuel pump diaphram,
does that make logical sence???

or is it that my twin carbs take alot longer to fill with the old mechanical pump than i realised, i was cranking the motor on after running on gas for around 10-12 minutes ysterday thn gave up as i was blumming gasping for my dinner & a few cuppa's!!!

i tried starting on petrol a minute go & it took about 2 mins of cranking then it it fired up??????? so at least its mobile again

so i can get the electric fuel pump hooked up & test its working correctly then its just a matter of fitting the current fuel lines to it & starting the motor to confirm alls well

i'll do some more lpg tuning then, i have a factory airbox & some adaptors coming in the post so i can get rid of my k&n style filtr if i need to if they are causing issues

pics/& vid coming.........

[lpgnovice]

the lpg cut off solinoid,its ok the wiring wont be staying like this, i have jusked it all up to get it working, then i'll tidy everything so its all neat 'n' sweet


brown (pulse wire to the coil) somat funny going on with this at the moment


mixers on the carbs, looks good i reckon


i had to chop the air filter base to get it to sit flat, suprisingly its completely air tight when the filtr elment & top cap type thing is fitted, i have hecking all my mixer joints with asy start & the rpms dont rise o no leaks

i'll use some high temp sealant on these when i have it all running well, unless i have isses then refit a factory air filter box

the reducer/vaporiser fitted


overall engine bay shot, what do you guys think so far, all help opinions appreciated


heater probe in the exhaust, i used som high tmp ptfe tape on the flexible braided gas pipes for a nice gas tight seal!


the switch on the dash, very subtle


vid
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq8/ ... CF0526.mp4

hope you guys like

[Tubbs]

It needs to be 7 -10 very tightly wound turns, all the turns need to be nice and neat and tight against each other not just wound up the lead, about an inch above the cap coming off the coil.

[lpgnovice]

right i'll give that a go tubbs thankyou again bud, i take it i strip the casing off the brown pulse wire, wrap it in a quality fashion, then use insulating tap ove the top to protect it from spurious signals

do you think i'm doing ok so far bud! as i say i dont plan to leave the wiring in the messy fashion its in now, i'll shorten the wires i can once its all up & running then wrap what comes into the engine bay with electrical tape so it looks fairly OEM/stealthy!

keep the install as neat, i've tried to keep all the lpg parts out & of the engine tinware so if i have to remove the engine its just case of disconnecting wires,pipes & accelerator cable & it can come out as a complete unit noce & tidy & as it should be!

my aim is to get it idling & drivable without popping/banging then i'll order the lambda setup from tinley to make it closed loop & hopefully a better performer all around than the manual adjuster


one thing, the power valve, what position should it be for the intitial setting up? i ask as mine was wound completly shut in the bag it came in
& from my novice understanding i should be able to get it to idle nicely without popping/banging by just adjusting the sencitivity screw is that right?
the other 10mm on is the fine idle adjustment which i presume is to get the idle rpms to basicly 900-1000rpm is that right?

cheers again all, give it another month eh LOL

[mat_fenwick]

i'll shorten the wires i can once its all up & running then wrap what comes into the engine bay with electrical tape so it looks fairly OEM/stealthy!

Personally I'd use heatshrink to insulate connections, then self amalgamating tape over the new loom, with split corrugated tubing over the loom where it might be vulnerable to abrasion. Insulating tape just turns to a sticky mess over time, especially with heat. But looking neat so far!

[Tubbs]

No you dont need to strip the sheathing off the brown wire. As long as the turns are good and tight then it will pick up the pulse no bother. The power valve should hopefully be at least 1/4 or even half open. There is no point tidying it all up till your happy it runs right mate. As simon says heat shrink and soldered joints. Its in the cop 11. No crimps !

[lpgnovice]

right i'll give that a go then tubbs thankyou fellow midlunder

i have been playing about again this afternoon, fitted my new low pressure ie: 4.5psi max for my carburetter engine

my question is can i use the yellow poer wire that turns the fuel switch on to power my fuel pump, i would put it through a relay or fuse as i dont want to draw to much power throught the lpg changeover switch, reason i'm thinking of doing it this way is that the elctric pump would then turn on & off with the switch when going from petrol to gas

also i want to wire it so it switches off if the engine cuts out, be it an engine problom or an accident, ie using the oil pressure idiot light or alternator light through a relay, ie if the motor cuts out the oil or alternator light ususaly comes on, this would switch the relay which woul in turn stop the pump

does that make sence???????

i'll also wire in a manual switch for the pump as a shady security measure

[Tubbs]

If you are involved in a no rpm signal scenario then the yellow wire wont have any power anyway.
But its best to use a relay i would say.
Any joy with the rpm feed yet ?

[lpgnovice]

right chaps, i'm having issues, i have wired my fuel pump & alls good with the petrol side

i'm having issues with the pulse wire (brown)

when its connected to the negative side of the coil, running on gas, if the motor cuts out the gas still coms through

when i have the pulse wire wound around the king lead (coil HT lead) the gas switches off but its not starting on gas at all, when i operate the ign switch on the key, changover switch in the gas positition (float bowels empty) when i turn the key all the gas supply solinoids switch off

i've been double checking it all today & cant find the problom, any ideas

how the pulse wire is at present



in this pic you can see where i have tapped into the yellow + wire to operate the fuel pump, i have a fuse in this wire aswell as the 12v switched supply to the changover switch so all is protected i have a 4amp fuse in each


its running better than ever on petrol with the new electric fuel pump-starts far better also

just gotta nail the gas side

HELP

[andy evans autogas]

right Iv'e had a little look over previous posts and can't see where you've connected the ignition live to, the best wiring advice I can give you is the black wire to neg /ground /battery -.your red wire to the + side of your coil .and the brown RPM wire to the - side of the coil. when the car stalls gas can still come out of the vap/solenoids for a very short while .also as you power up the ignition the solenoids will open up to prime the system before it see's an RPM signal......all this is providing the change over switch is of the carb -safety type .....the yellow wire should be used to power your petrol pump (but put an override switch in just in case you get a fuse blowing).....hope this helps