Having had the car looked at last week my LPG man ruled out possible faults with the ECU, Reducer etc. (Rossko right as usual) and narrowed it down to the Solenoid's he managed to change the one on reducer and told me to have drive and see. I have driven it a week and the problem only happend once, where as before it was happening on every trip. Therefore I assume the new Solenoid he placed on the reducer greatly improved on solving the issue and at one point I thought solved it?! The fact that I encountered the issue once since the change can I assume another Solenoid needs to be changed? My garage man who is an absolute gent told me come back if this did not solve it as he said it may mean changing the remaining Solenoids as he is certain the problem is with them?? Cheers
P38 Range Rover Landi Renzo Omegas issues.
Update...
Having had the car looked at last week my LPG man ruled out possible faults with the ECU, Reducer etc. (Rossko right as usual) and narrowed it down to the Solenoid's he managed to change the one on reducer and told me to have drive and see. I have driven it a week and the problem only happend once, where as before it was happening on every trip. Therefore I assume the new Solenoid he placed on the reducer greatly improved on solving the issue and at one point I thought solved it?! The fact that I encountered the issue once since the change can I assume another Solenoid needs to be changed? My garage man who is an absolute gent told me come back if this did not solve it as he said it may mean changing the remaining Solenoids as he is certain the problem is with them?? Cheers
Having had the car looked at last week my LPG man ruled out possible faults with the ECU, Reducer etc. (Rossko right as usual) and narrowed it down to the Solenoid's he managed to change the one on reducer and told me to have drive and see. I have driven it a week and the problem only happend once, where as before it was happening on every trip. Therefore I assume the new Solenoid he placed on the reducer greatly improved on solving the issue and at one point I thought solved it?! The fact that I encountered the issue once since the change can I assume another Solenoid needs to be changed? My garage man who is an absolute gent told me come back if this did not solve it as he said it may mean changing the remaining Solenoids as he is certain the problem is with them?? Cheers
Having changed the tanks solenoid, it has not cured the problem! The bloody things been playing up consistanly the past few days, so I am totaly confused and pi**ed off!! The garage can only see it next week but I am amazed this issue has only happened to me or that no one can really identify a possible issue?
The reducer shows all the signs of working properly at various RPMs and the garage thus assured me it was fine. I also swapped the ECU for another one I got and the same thing happed so the ECU is fine. I also unplugged the main wires from the ECU and plugged back in etc. But theres not much else I can think of to do in order to test or locate the problem area. I also have a another wiring loom but it looks difficult to replace that as there is a wire thats going under the manifold, so dont know how to access that etc.
The confusing thing is that it happens whenever it wants, sometimes a few days without then eveytime on a run. It can be while I am driving or parked up. I have a laptop in the car now and if use that to reload a particular setup it seems to cure it and becomes drivable otherwise I can turn the engine off and the beeping noise goes away and seems to drive on LPG without problem again, but even that has not been long lasting recently. The performance while on LPG faultless, its smooth and gives me power when needed, I have also changed the spark plugs but to be honest it does not and never has runned like a dog, just keeps beeping/flashing and changing to petrol, AAAAAHHHHHH!!!

The reducer shows all the signs of working properly at various RPMs and the garage thus assured me it was fine. I also swapped the ECU for another one I got and the same thing happed so the ECU is fine. I also unplugged the main wires from the ECU and plugged back in etc. But theres not much else I can think of to do in order to test or locate the problem area. I also have a another wiring loom but it looks difficult to replace that as there is a wire thats going under the manifold, so dont know how to access that etc.
The confusing thing is that it happens whenever it wants, sometimes a few days without then eveytime on a run. It can be while I am driving or parked up. I have a laptop in the car now and if use that to reload a particular setup it seems to cure it and becomes drivable otherwise I can turn the engine off and the beeping noise goes away and seems to drive on LPG without problem again, but even that has not been long lasting recently. The performance while on LPG faultless, its smooth and gives me power when needed, I have also changed the spark plugs but to be honest it does not and never has runned like a dog, just keeps beeping/flashing and changing to petrol, AAAAAHHHHHH!!!
Hi Rossko, just got off the phoneto a few people that still mess around with Landi Renzo Omegas systems, 2 points came out of the conversations;
1. I am a loon (joke)
1. Change pressure sensor (as per your suggestion Rossko) - The good man at Tinly-Tech said that if there is no pressure reading for gas even while running on petrol then this could indicate pressure sensor based on what I had told him. I can remember looking at the reading vai the laptop when it was beeing and on petrol and can recall a 0.00 reading where the gas pressure was, I assumed that is normal if the cars on petrol, there is no gas reading??
2. Temperature sensor wire thats somwhere from a copper t-pipe? or around the pipes that feeds into the heater matrix? maybe disconnected??
I know where ther pressure sensor is and am currently awaiting a price for that, but dont have a clue on checking the Temp sensor wire as I dont know where it should be connected to etc??
Cheers...
1. I am a loon (joke)
1. Change pressure sensor (as per your suggestion Rossko) - The good man at Tinly-Tech said that if there is no pressure reading for gas even while running on petrol then this could indicate pressure sensor based on what I had told him. I can remember looking at the reading vai the laptop when it was beeing and on petrol and can recall a 0.00 reading where the gas pressure was, I assumed that is normal if the cars on petrol, there is no gas reading??
2. Temperature sensor wire thats somwhere from a copper t-pipe? or around the pipes that feeds into the heater matrix? maybe disconnected??
I know where ther pressure sensor is and am currently awaiting a price for that, but dont have a clue on checking the Temp sensor wire as I dont know where it should be connected to etc??
Cheers...
I took out the pressure sensor yesterday evening and noticed that pipe labelled Vacuum had what looked like traces of black oil/petrol near the sensor box output end and in the actual opening of the sensor box. The other pipe labelled pressure that was connected to the matrix injector looked clear. I took both pipes out and gave it a good clean, also used the Hoover over the vacuum opening of the sensor to clear out the gunk that was in there.
Put it all back in and took it for a drive, also this morning, nothing to report as yet but as I am well aware, this thing can go for days without trouble and the....'Beep-Beep-Beep....' So will wait and see, but would like to know how the pressure sensor works, i.e. does the vacuum side of it pull in petrol from the engine side of things, if so is it meant to have petrol in the pipe completely etc? A little bit of education surrounding that would be nice (nudge-nudge Rossko) cheers!
Put it all back in and took it for a drive, also this morning, nothing to report as yet but as I am well aware, this thing can go for days without trouble and the....'Beep-Beep-Beep....' So will wait and see, but would like to know how the pressure sensor works, i.e. does the vacuum side of it pull in petrol from the engine side of things, if so is it meant to have petrol in the pipe completely etc? A little bit of education surrounding that would be nice (nudge-nudge Rossko) cheers!
Just an update, it was indeed the pressure sensor which was faulty, gave the warning sound to inidicate the gas was empty (when it was not) hence the change over to petrol. I got a new sensor from OZON LPG INSTALLATIONS LTD. in plymouth, as they are the only LPG place I know of that still sell Landi Renzo parts in the UK. Cheers
Re: P38 Range Rover Landi Renzo Omegas issues.
Hi Stewie,
In an old post you said...."Anyway I think I may be getting closer to the issue as when it happened the other day I was able to keep it running while connecting my laptop to it. Although no errors were being registered I did notice how the software display speedo was indicating the rangie idling at 3000RPM's when in fact it was sitting at a normall 7-800RPMs??
Therefore I am guessing there is a fault with the LPG system reading the cars true RPMs and thus it can't cope when driving normally as it probably things I am racing around at an average of 6000RPMs?? I checked this reading numerous times switching the car off and on again to see if it would give a correct reading but no good. I even checked it again this morning before going to work and it still thought the car was sat idle at 3000RPMs?!
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Did you get to the bottom of the faulty RPM readings? I ask because I have the same problem. It reads either 3,400 RPM on IDLE or sometimes 6,000RPM
I have no idea where to check as the wiring is all taped up or in a sealed loom in a pre-formed sleeve.
In an old post you said...."Anyway I think I may be getting closer to the issue as when it happened the other day I was able to keep it running while connecting my laptop to it. Although no errors were being registered I did notice how the software display speedo was indicating the rangie idling at 3000RPM's when in fact it was sitting at a normall 7-800RPMs??
Therefore I am guessing there is a fault with the LPG system reading the cars true RPMs and thus it can't cope when driving normally as it probably things I am racing around at an average of 6000RPMs?? I checked this reading numerous times switching the car off and on again to see if it would give a correct reading but no good. I even checked it again this morning before going to work and it still thought the car was sat idle at 3000RPMs?!
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Did you get to the bottom of the faulty RPM readings? I ask because I have the same problem. It reads either 3,400 RPM on IDLE or sometimes 6,000RPM
I have no idea where to check as the wiring is all taped up or in a sealed loom in a pre-formed sleeve.