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classicswede · #21 Post by **classicswede** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:38 pm

250bhp on gas is no big deal. It is possible to go 300bhp and beyond with out switching back to petrol. The thing is once you go beond what the gas is capeble of the it will switch back to petrol on the AEB N systems. The real difference with high power engines is the install can be the difference between a nice smooth running engine or melt down!

richy_boy · #23 Post by **richy_boy** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:02 am

I think the guy MEANT (I'm sure he can confirm) that he asked a system be put in place that could handle the fuelling for 250bhp, and not max out at the power he is running at present. You can run nearly full power on a turbo car with a 'slightly' weak mixture very easily. It'll just run hot at high revs and melt pistons! <IMG SRC="http://www.my90.co.uk/lpgforum/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> It's very common on engines to have a 'weak piston' on turbo cars. It's to do with how the block is cooled through the water ways, or how the oil is sprayed onto the base of the piston etc. Take a suburu Impreza for example, they nearly always melt the same piston when they go (no.4 I think) due to it being the furthest from the water pump. My IT example was merely stating the last thing changed is NATURALLY blamed for any problems with the car, although, as you say there may be an inherent problem already like a dying fan which won't show up in any logs! Even so, seeing as something so fundermental is being done to the car I'd like to see an installer giving the car a quick check over and maybe runs a compression test to check nothing is seriously worn/broken... if nothing else to cover their own ar$es! Rich

sm200sx · #24 Post by **sm200sx** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:50 pm

@ Richy Your talking about 2 different types of cooling. Evaportive effects of Petrol in the inlet port and Cyclinder/Exhaust Gas temperatures. Adding fuel can lower EGT's (that melt pistons and valves) this will work with any fuel. Cooling the inlet will also cool the charge, and the EGT, just becasue you dont have this effect on gas doesnt mean adding more fuel on gas wont lower EGT's / cylinder temps.

richy_boy · #26 Post by **richy_boy** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:20 pm

hehe, cool - new posts are arriving at the bottom now! <IMG SRC="http://www.my90.co.uk/lpgforum/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> @Kev, you are far wiser than me on the matter, so I'll take your word for it. Would be nice to see some actual figures on around this topic though! Rich

sm200sx · #27 Post by **sm200sx** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:26 am

Best example I can give you is Jez's car. OK, so its petrol, and 500bhp, but it will work as an example. He has to limit the EGT's to ~950oC Method 1 Run ~ 10.5 AFR at higher revs, 24psi boost. Method 2 Run ~ 11.5 AFR at higher revs, 24psi boost with Water injection to give additional inlet port cooling and needing less fuel to keep the EGT's within tolernaces. You can also advance the ignition on this setup, which again cools EGT's Now with the S13 trackcar project the S14 is on hold. I had planned to try and run a stage 3 setup on gas, with WI to counter the lack of inlet port cooling above 0.8Bar. Unless I win the lottery the S14 will stay as it is <IMG SRC="http://www.my90.co.uk/lpgforum/clipart/sad.gif" ALT=":-(" BORDER=0> Sorry to anybody else reading this where the example will mean nothing, along with the rest of this post.

alexf2828 · #28 Post by **alexf2828** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:55 pm

doesn't sound good that the prinz kit didn't work well,it's supposed to be a good kit and should have worked well on the car-I reckon things were just not setup properly

alexf2828 · #30 Post by **alexf2828** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 11:55 am

Its not going to be easy to prove it was the LPG but it certainly sounds like it was,best bet is to go back to the installer with some of the knowledge you have gained from here and try and get some compensation.If you are going to fit LPG again to the new lump I would defo recommend going to someone that just specialises in one kit and that has been in business for a long time-they know the kit inside out and know what they're doing with it,my car is a turbo with a standard lump & internals and it hasn't melted anything yet after 18k on the stuff

classicswede · #32 Post by **classicswede** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:00 am

I agree with keith here LPGA says nothing about install quality. It can be difficult to find a good installer and they are always the most expensive. Mike

alexf2828 · #34 Post by **alexf2828** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 6:18 pm

The only way you could maybe prove something would be to take it to someone who does BRC and that has converted your type of car and ask them to see how your system has been setup.Also damage could have been done by the previous kit running badly-but seeing as the kit has been removed no way of telling how it was setup! How much was the install BTW?

sm200sx · #37 Post by **sm200sx** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:02 am

Unfortunatly "proving" anything will be hard, I certainly wouldnt be getting the same installer to set it up on your newly rebuilt engine. Good Luck

alexf2828 · #38 Post by **alexf2828** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:26 am

Another possibilty is that the kit may not have been the right one for the car! My installer thought my car was fully sequential but turned out to be semi sequential (fires 1&2 then 3&4 in pairs) and only found out when the kit wouldn't run.

richy_boy · #39 Post by **richy_boy** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:16 am

Erm, nope. I paid £1650 or something for my BRC Sequent Fast install. Fitted to a VERY high standard with all the bells and whistles necessary for it to work on a Turbo car. £2000 is a silly price. £1300-1500 would be 'normal' for a standard car, then I would expect to pay more if you have any special requirements (i.e. big power) Rich