Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

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CNG
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#61 Post by CNG »

Seems the Blowback Backfire ring Valve doodad is not going in anyway - yet. The BLOS isn't 70mm, it's 71.25mm. With the BLOS more precious than the blow-back ring, I've dropped the ring off to my local machine-shop.

I've re-shuffled the Gal wiring loom to fit with the way it'll land in an LR, narrowband gauge; TPS location etc Getting too old, have to do a drawing, else 18 mths from now I'll never remember what I did, and this being a family heirloom vehicle - I'm third gen. now, best archive for the boy when I'm too old and doddery.

Tragic, probably... but it's got to work, and be repairable. I know I will forget. I wonder how many people do a drawing for their gas ECU? Ever?

Blue area is engine-bay/ white is dash. - blah...
gal rejig.png
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Last edited by CNG on Wed Oct 18, 2023 4:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#62 Post by CNG »

Fuel sensor is in dashboard because I've one of those Spiyda Gauge Wizards in. The CNG 5-0V sensor will feed the stock Smiths resistive LR petrol gauge. LEDs break the spell - in my mind, eye-bleach in a classic.

https://spiyda.com/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

Suspect their usual buyer won't be for this sort of thing, Spiyda have been ultra-helpful with this oddity.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#63 Post by LPGC »

CNG wrote: Sat Oct 14, 2023 4:21 pm Blowback Backfire Ring Valves
Anally retentive query. I've a collection of these in 80mm., yet never been able to source one in 70mm, and I've not had a backfire for years- ever less likely with a Leo/Gal, yet reckon a valve won't hurt. The usual suspects long sold out of anything in 70mm. Single-point is - let's face it - dead. I must be the last installing such things, in the UK anyway.

Blowback Backfire Valve.png

Finally, finally got a used one, found in Lithuania. I'm about to plonk it in, and was going to put the hinge at 12 o'clock. Then it occurs to me why would I want it shut in default, and add restriction before it opens to WOT?
Then 6 o'clock makes some sense. 3 or 9 o'clock leaves the flap's weight on the hinge, this over choking air-flow, yet more readily closed?

It's an LR. Can't imagine it makes much difference, what's received wisdom?
Sorry the late reply re 'blow back valve'.

To me the 'blow back valve' looks like a standard 'blow off' valve screwed to the inside of the outer part of a conventional mixer body.

Blow-off valves are normally closed, they are normally fitted to the outside of an air filter housing so that in the event of a backfire the door opens releasing pressure instead of the air filter housing exploding.

Not that fitting a mixer system to something with a weak (likely to explode) inlet manifold would be a good idea anyway but imagine if it were a blow back valve supposed to fit on the throttle body... It would further increase the chance of any backfire destroying one of the more important components on the vehicle, it would protect the air filter at the expense of increasing the risk of damaging the inlet manifold (or if the throttle were nearly closed it wouldn't do anything much because the throttle plate would likely make just as good a seal and the throttle plate wouldn't need to move to react to the pressure front). Much better that an air filter housing gets broken than an inlet manifold! Even on a carb vehicle with an inlet manifold that can normally handle backfires a functioning blow back valve might still see higher pressure in the inlet manifold than without it fitted.

If it is normally closed it would prevent the engine running on petrol or LPG if you fitted it at any point in inlet air routing. Also you wouldn't want those screws to come out and enter the engine :-(

I think someone in Lithuania didn't understand the function of a blow-off valve designed to be fitted to an air filter... If it does turn out to be a blow back valve that's normally closed it hasn't come off a carb or LPG mixer equipped vehicle (not one that ran properly with it fitted anyway, and it would probably severely restrict the performance of a fuel injected vehicle)... I wouldn't fit that in the way/position it seems to have been adapted to be fitted. Even if it could be made to work as a blow back valve if set at a certain O'clock, the Landrover might be expected to run at various angles of O'clock off-road and any vehicle sees G forces that would effectively affect O'clock when cornering / braking.

Mick at LPGAutosupplies may still be able to sell you a blow off valve to fit into an air filter housing, may need modifying to suit a Landrover air filter housing.

You certainly won't be the last to fit a single point mixer system in the UK, every year I get enquiries for converting carb equipped vehicles and still do the odd one. There's a lot of classic cars and 90's campervan (such as carb equipped Peugeot/Talbot 2L campers) out there.

There are other oddity type components to mixer systems too, such as 'flap openers'. Bosch K-Jetronic (mechanical fuel injection systems) use a flapper in the intake air stream, as the flapper deflects with increasing intake airflow it progressively opens internal channels in the fuel injection air/fuel metering block to allow more fuel to the continuous flow fuel injectors. The system worked great on early (early 80s etc) fuel injected vehicles such as Mercs and Ford 2.8i engines and could even be made closed loop (with KE-Jetronic)... But the flapper was a restriction in air flow that messed up fuelling on an LPG mixer system and generally caused it to run too rich because the restriction caused a bit of a vacuum in the air ducting before the mixer. One solution was the 'flap opener', a device that used LPG pressure from the entry point of gas to the LPG reducer to move (kind of hydraulically / pneumatically) a rod that kept the K-Jet air metering flap open when running on LPG. Gas pressure whenever it was running on LPG because then the reducer would be getting gas pressure, automatically releasing the flapper to free movement to again respond to airflow when the reducer didn't have any gas pressure feeding it. If you fit a normally closed door in the intake stream then you're effectively building in a problem that the K-Jet flap opener was designed to overcome, worse because the normally closed flap won't be as likely to open anything like as linearly to incoming airflow as the K-Jet metering system.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#64 Post by CNG »

I'm surprised you're doing the odd single-point, good to hear.


BRC AIR FLOW METER PROTECTION.jpg
BRC AIR FLOW METER PROTECTION.jpg (195.48 KiB) Viewed 1403 times


I've 3-4 of these blowback rings, the others are all BRC and 60 x 80mm or 70 x 80mm.. Could never get a 70 x 70mm.

Not strictly described as anything, I bought this version in a job lot. They're all pretty much the same. Saw it piled in with some odd (oval) cooker-rings and power-valves on eBay, bought the lot for £20.

In truth there's not much to protect. No MAF etc. Inlet tract is cast aluminium or stainless tube, I worry to damage the none to easy to replace BLOS. I had it to get the ring machined, centre-punch a few screw-threads, and put it pre-BLOS - hinge at 6 0'clock. Your words have me think it's not so clear-cut.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#65 Post by LPGC »

I would never have considered fitting such flap (especially normally closed) on a carb engine or on an LPG/CNG mixer equipped engine because on either type the flap is going to act like the choke plate on a carb and richen up the mixture.

The description does say 'recommended when in the LPG or CNG installation there is not the blade opener' and then it goes on 'Considering the low cost this device can be used in other installation too as a safety device for the air filter, the air flow meter, etc'. If by 'blade opener' they mean a throttle plate then it might be better suited to a simple LPG/CNG supplementation system on a diesel engine (diesels not having a throttle or carb to worry about and always running with unrestricted airflow, think in terms of full throttle if it were a petrol engine, enough airflow to keep the flap open)?
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#66 Post by CNG »

I was going to plonk it 'hinge at 6' thus it's always gravity-open - only the force of a blowback would ever see it shut.

Anyways, back to my quicker carb shut-off solution.

Digging around it seems BL Austin Maestros had an anti-run valve that did exactly this. Kinda'

https://maestro.org.uk/forums/forum/tec ... red?t=3102

The explanation you'll find could addle your brain... in short the valve connects 'Venturi vacuum' to the area above the petrol in the float-chamber thus killing the very pressure difference a carb needs to work. All it wants is a sealed float-chamber and a 3 port valve on the float-chamber vent. Simple. I was pondering using vacuum, and now I have it.

But do I?

Seems brilliant to me? So brilliant I wonder why it isn't maybe a little 'too' brilliant? All single point systems should work like this, and they don't? Someone's the fool and I suspect it's me?

Putting a cut-off solenoid near the lower float-bowl is proving 'orrible or expensive. This Maestro trick,, I can see it getting hairy with a faulty float-needle. What else have I missed? Why is this stupid? Or can I announce my genius?

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#67 Post by LPGC »

Just so we're on the same page, the blow back valve is a different subject to the fuel cut off mechanism on the Maestro carb?

The Maestro carb has the facility to cut off petrol fuelling during over-run conditions in the way you mention, ultimately by killing the force that causes petrol to be sucked out of the carb jet.

The page you linked to showed a simplified GIF of the way the bypass valve achieves killing the force that causes petrol to be sucked out of the carb jet but didn't show a diagram of the full carb setup with the bypass valve attached... I don't know if you could modify any/your SU carb to include such bypass valve or whether you'd be looking to replace your carb with one from a Maestro that is already set up with the valve? The author (of the page you linked to) says the bypass valve opens during over-run at half second intervals.. I don't know if that implies some sort of electronic control of the bypass mechanism?

I think there's potential for such bypass valve system to work (to cut off fuelling when running on LPG), particularly if it is electronically controlled. But I would keep in mind that the bypass is only designed to function during over-run type conditions... Hopefully it will cut off all petrol fuelling during load conditions too (which is what you'd need if using it to cut off petrol when running on LPG) but maybe not? Towards the back end of carbs being fitted on vehicles all sorts of electronic / add on equipment was fitted to them including idle speed control systems, anti-stall devices, anti-run-on systems. I've worked on some carb setups that had electronic controlled anti-run-on devices which would definitely cut off all fuelling at idle but definitely not cut off fuelling with foot on the accelerator pedal, seemingly negligible effect on under load mixture.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#68 Post by Gilbertd »

I've got a feeling if you put the hinge of the valve at the bottom, it is just going to lay in the bottom of the intake tract and do nothing unless it has a lip or similar on the edge for the blowback to get under to lift it.

Having had a Maestro as a company car many years ago, I don't think anything taken from it would be a step forward. While it seems it would work in theory, I'm not sure I would want to rely on a vacuum stopping all of the fuel from getting to the main jet under all circumstances. You'd need to somehow generate a lot of vacuum all the time so you can't rely on intake vacuum which would mean having to add yet more bits in the form of a vacuum pump of some sort.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#69 Post by LPGC »

Gilbertd wrote: Sat Oct 21, 2023 8:16 pm I've got a feeling if you put the hinge of the valve at the bottom, it is just going to lay in the bottom of the intake tract and do nothing unless it has a lip or similar on the edge for the blowback to get under to lift it.
Same thought occurred to me. Also, if we put it before an LPG mixer it's going to effect the flow through the mixer and effect mixture on LPG. If we put it before a carb it'll do the same to petrol mixture. There'll be no way to fit it between a carb or throttle body and a manifold because it won't have the bolt pattern.
Gilbertd wrote: Sat Oct 21, 2023 8:16 pm ...While it seems it would work in theory, I'm not sure I would want to rely on a vacuum stopping all of the fuel from getting to the main jet under all circumstances. You'd need to somehow generate a lot of vacuum all the time so you can't rely on intake vacuum which would mean having to add yet more bits in the form of a vacuum pump of some sort.
I'm not sure whether the valve is controlled entirely by vacuum, entirely by an electronic solenoid, or by a vacuum valve controlled by an electronic solenoid. I'd probably expect the latter but for what I'm about to say I don't think that'd make a great deal of difference because for purpose of cutting off all petrol fuelling when running on LPG the valve would need to be open constantly, which doesn't seem to be too difficult to achieve with a bit of adaption regardless of vacuum, electronic or hybrid control... Could always fit a vacuum reservoir? The 'What Im about to say' bit is... My concerns are that even with the valve open it might not cut off all fuelling with foot on the accelerator. It might only give similar effect to (say) the anti-run-on valve on a Peugeot/Talbot 2 litre carb engine from the 90's, I mention this setup because it's one I continue to see and have converted lots of them to LPG in the past. On those carbs there's a normally on (with engine running) electrical solenoid, pull the wire to the solenoid and at idle the engine will immediately die if it's just idling but with the application of any throttle it makes next to no difference to mixture. Before I discovered it didn't actually cut fuelling, just cut fuelling at idle, I considered using it to cut off petrol fuelling when running on LPG but I very soon discovered it didn't cut fuelling when any throttle was applied and obviously wouldn't be suitable for cutting petrol fuelling for running on LPG.

Even if such valve setup (dumping air from the top of the float bowl to the venturi near carb jets) worked perfectly well on some carbs (which would probably be designed for it) I can't see it working on all carbs even if they were modified. I'm also curious about the 'from the top of the float bowl' aspect.. I can see that any slight vacuum above the level of liquid petrol in the float bowl wouldn't cause any more petrol to flow into the float bowl because petrol level is controlled by the float, and I can see that applying a vacuum above the petrol in the float bowl will have an effect of slowing/preventing petrol flowing from the float bowl through the jet... But the fact that the connection is between the venturi and the float bowl implies that it's not just a case of dumping vacuum at the venturi near the jet because that could be achieved with the vacuum dump valve making a connection between the venturi and (say) the air filter without risking dumping fuel splashes from inside the float bowl going through the vacuum dump pipe into the venturi, the design implies that it's also the vacuum above petrol in the float bowl that's making the cut-off system work. This seems a fine balancing act that is unlikely to cut off all petrol flow under any engine running condition and even less likely to be consistent in shutting off all petrol flow over changing throttle positions etc.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#70 Post by Gilbertd »

Having owned a number of vehicles with the Peugeot/Talbot Solex carb with the shut off solenoid, it only shuts off the air flow to the idle valve and hence the idle jet. The idea is to stop the engine by giving it no fuel/air mixture at idle when it is only getting it from the idle jet and not the main jet. So it won't have any affect once the main jet is supplying fuel.

Thinking more about this idea of a vacuum above the level of petrol in the float chamber. Agree it will hold the float up so prevent any further fuel from entering the chamber but if there is a constant vacuum above the fuel level, what is to stop that same vacuum sucking the fuel out? Air will be drawn in through the main jet and the vacuum will just suck the fuel out.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#71 Post by LPGC »

Gilbertd wrote: Sat Oct 21, 2023 9:52 pm Having owned a number of vehicles with the Peugeot/Talbot Solex carb with the shut off solenoid, it only shuts off the air flow to the idle valve and hence the idle jet. The idea is to stop the engine by giving it no fuel/air mixture at idle when it is only getting it from the idle jet and not the main jet. So it won't have any affect once the main jet is supplying fuel.
That was my first and long time conclusion, it was only after reading about the Maestro carb fuel shut off system that I wondered if it worked in a different way.
I suppose still serves as an example of something that can cut of fuelling at idle but not effect on throttle mixture by nearly as much.
Gilbertd wrote: Sat Oct 21, 2023 9:52 pm Thinking more about this idea of a vacuum above the level of petrol in the float chamber. Agree it will hold the float up so prevent any further fuel from entering the chamber but if there is a constant vacuum above the fuel level, what is to stop that same vacuum sucking the fuel out? Air will be drawn in through the main jet and the vacuum will just suck the fuel out.
Thinking along the same lines as me. I suppose that with liquid fuel level held constant by the float system and with the float bowl having a vent to atmospheric (or boost) pressure, with a gap between the vacuum dump pipe and the liquid no liquid will be sucked through unless the fuel is sploshing around in the float bowl. But the top of the float bowl seems a strange place to run a vacuum dump pipe to unless a vacuum build up in the float bowl is part of the reason the fuel cut off works.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#72 Post by LPGC »

I've had a bit more of a think and I don't think the vacuum dump valve, if needs to be connected to the top of the float chamber, system would cut off all petrol fuelling regardless of throttle position.

The design implies that it works partly by lessening the vacuum 'signal' at the petrol jet, partly be effectively lowering weight of petrol pressure in the float bowl (pressure at the jet).

The carb will be set up to give high engine load mixture enrichment, which means a none linear relationship between airflow and fuel flow.

To work at higher engine loads would involve a higher vacuum above the petrol in the float bowl than at lower engine loads / over-run.

Given a float bowl's vent, manifold vacuum decreases with with increasing engine load, carb setup to give high load mixture enrichment, the system would need a vacuum pump to maintain high enough vacuum above petrol in the float bowl under all driving conditions to prevent flow of petrol through the jet and when load was high enough to need the extra vacuum of the vacuum pump if the same vacuum were presented near the jet it would still balance out the pressures so at high engine loads the venturi vacuum would still need venting to the air filter. Or in other words I think we'd find that with increasing vacuum signal at the venturi we'd need a bigger vacuum above the petrol in the float chamber to prevent petrol flowing through the jet, at least in part because normally the carb will give richer mixture at higher engine loads.
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#73 Post by CNG »

First the Maestro fuel cut-off thing:
I would want to rely on a vacuum stopping all of the fuel from getting to the main jet under all circumstances. You'd need to somehow generate a lot of vacuum all the time so you can't rely on intake vacuum which would mean having to add yet more bits in the form of a vacuum pump of
That's it right there. I can credit myself as wise enough to question why no one else does it this way, not wise enough to see the reason. My genius status is on hold:

1) The Maestro uses this device as a cut-off - used to stop. The engine actually DOES stop.
2) The vacuum in a Maestro will be at greatest - as throttle is shut. And when not great it won't matter.

Whereas my plan fails somewhere, it's daft.... a lot of vacuum all the time I don't have. By differing routes, both of you come to the same conclusion. I was going to put a 3-port valve off the float-vent on my HS6. It won't work, it's stupid, I will not do this.

It'll be a proper shut-off in the form of a standard tap/valve, or not at all.

I found this, it's the perfect solution, only it's a custom job. Machine-shop I don't have:

In German.

https://trtom.wordpress.com/2016/12/24/ ... rburetors/

In English;

https://trtom-wordpress-com.translate.g ... r_pto=wapp

I'd consider it, this method uses an obscure hard to source Merc part. My first problem would be finding an easy to get generic alternative.

Maybe something like this:
VW.png
VW.png (84.53 KiB) Viewed 1303 times
SU HS6 Fuel Shut-off.png
SU HS6 Fuel Shut-off.png (62.15 KiB) Viewed 1301 times
Hang that off the HS6 float-bowl. Pricey, machine-shop time has to be £3-400. Still fighting to find simple cheaper solution.
Last edited by CNG on Sun Oct 22, 2023 11:29 am, edited 6 times in total.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#74 Post by CNG »

The blow back valve thing:

The blow back valve a different subject:
I've got a feeling if you put the hinge of the valve at the bottom, it is just going to lay in the bottom of the intake tract and do nothing unless it has a lip or similar on the edge for the blowback to get under to lift it.
You may well be right. As I look at it, it's canted enough to catch gas in explosion, and shut - I think. At 6 o'clock, and in lay-flat, it won't affect normal running very much. If at all. About 4 o'clock would still see it hinge to open in default, and still easier to blow shut?

Thus if it works, it works. It's not required anyway, or I hope so? I've not lost too much either way.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#75 Post by CNG »

Life gets in the way, back to this as soon as I can.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#76 Post by CNG »

It's been freezing out there lately. What with life to get on with this project got put on hold, I'm back...

Progress:

1) I've now got a properly functioning CNG gauge/sender, this displays to my stock Smiths gauge - interfaced via a Gauge Wizard.

CB01 Gauge.png
CB01 Gauge.png (528.19 KiB) Viewed 742 times


Chis at spiyda.com was very helpful.

https://spiyda.com/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

It took over a dozen of the Chinese gauges to get a combination that works. What with faulty gauges via AliExpress, time to get them etc etc, the whole sorry saga FINALLY comes to an end. I'd detail the actual solution in another thread. I was like a dog with a bone on this, the bill for a functioning fuel gauge come at roughly £350, and on and off, what must be a good week's work. No... I don't believe it either.

CB01 CNG Sender with 10V.png
CB01 CNG Sender with 10V.png (52.1 KiB) Viewed 762 times

Above is the shorthand version of the solution. Will cover full 'how & why' in another thread.
Last edited by CNG on Sat Feb 03, 2024 2:07 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#77 Post by CNG »

2) Mounting a TPS on an SU carb. I didn't like this idea, I've made a barn-yard competent pedal-operated TPS. Series land rovers have a rod/lever throttle linkage. Horrible cumbersome thing, I put in a cable-op from the later Defender thus:
NRC5220 NRC7827 TPS Solution.png
NRC5220 NRC7827 TPS Solution.png (227.15 KiB) Viewed 759 times

CNG
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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#78 Post by CNG »

As mentioned earlier in this thread, what took the time was finding a sensor that I felt could wangle to have the 30 degree of the pedal make 90 degrees for any stock TPS.....

ISUZU NKR 600P TPS 8973059220 01.png
ISUZU NKR 600P TPS 8973059220 01.png (102.69 KiB) Viewed 758 times

I found: ISUZU NKR 600P TPS 8973059220

See it before I fettled and painted, with a bit of messing to get the geometry right I got this....

TPS Not to an SU after all 02.png
TPS Not to an SU after all 02.png (736.37 KiB) Viewed 758 times
TPS Not to an SU after all 01.png
TPS Not to an SU after all 01.png (866.69 KiB) Viewed 758 times

Shown 'pedal-down' and 'pedal-up'.

Gets to the required 90 Degree of TPS sensor throw; this from 30 degrees of pedal.
It's well out of the way thus it won't get kicked. I've since painted the lot black - you'd not know it was there.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#79 Post by CNG »

3. I've already got a wideband O2 running to a WB gauge. Made by Innovate its WB controller allows an emulated Narrowband output. Only I've got two bungs on my exhaust anyway. May as well run a independent NB O2 and use this NB to drive the Galileo. Now, I likes my gauges.

Earlier in this thread I said I bought a NB gauge too. What I plan to do is run two O2 gauges:

1) My WB Innovate
Lambda 0.99.png
Lambda 0.99.png (566.63 KiB) Viewed 752 times

2) Aaaaand.... my Chinese NB cheapy.
AFR gauge.png
AFR gauge.png (186.89 KiB) Viewed 752 times
The Chinese gauge comes with its own sensor. The plan to take its output to run the cheapy gauge, and... the Galileo.

Only...
Last edited by CNG on Sat Feb 03, 2024 1:58 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Leonardo / Galileo LR Install - it's about time.

#80 Post by CNG »

... I'm a bit confused. I thought any 4-wire NB 02 sensor was any 4-wire NB 02 sensor; was any 4-wire NB 02 sensor? All, if NB will have 0-1 Volts output. Is this correct?

Why do I ask? I've got 3-4 of them laying about, all proper, proper Denso/NGK and near new. Don't trust the NB O2 sensor supplied with the cheapy Chinese gauge. Teh cheapy NB gauge wants 0-1 Volts , but... all the proper Denso/NGK are from mid 90s Volvos. I heard these may or may output something else? 0-5V? Whatever their output, with regard to the Galileo, it'll be fine, the Galileo can be config'ed to deal with any O2 anyway ( Ithink?).

Thus my Q: If I want to run my cheapy gauge which requires 0-1 Volts - am I forced to forget those proper Denso/NGK sensors and use the Chinese cheapy sensor?

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