stepper and ECU for single pt system

[Pinger]

Yes it would be true for any number of emulators. If the emulators are separate from the LPG ECU they can be left as they are and they will still work with a replacement LPG ECU as long as they are still connected to the LPG solenoids power feed.

Presumably, my emulators see that feed from the 175 ECU. How do I identify the relative wire (given the 170 ECU wont be providing a signal)? Probe the loom end connector plug with a voltmeter looking for the wire that receives a signal when I (manually) energise the solenoids?

[Gilbertd]

The Blue wire. Your existing emulators will have a supply that is connected to the same wire as the solenoids so when the solenoids are powered (to run on gas), the emulators are as well.

The 14 way Molex on the 175 is male, has male pins.

[LPGC]

AEB175 Leonardo ECU with connectors and loom that's been cut very short on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295000351049

Lot on my mind and a bit of memory lapse lol... I'd have to re-read to find whether it was your ECU or stepper that's broken (think it's your stepper).... But if it's your ECU this ECU might work plug'n'play, or if it's your stepper this would give you the connectors to make an adapter for the 175. Maybe all considered a more effective way of getting the connectors than spending time trying to find the correct connectors, especially if it turned out they connectors would cost not far from the cost of this?

[Gilbertd]

That isn't going to help unless he rips the sockets out of the Leo (which at £40 is a bit steep). He has a Leo and has bought (is buying) the clearance Galileo. As the plugs are different he wants to make up a patch lead that will plug onto his Leo loom and convert it to the Galileo. That way he doesn't need to change the loom and has the option of switching from one ECU to the other using the existing loom into the Leo and using the Galileo via the patch lead.

[Pinger]

I think I've found the main receptacle (£5 all in) here >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174150307259 ... SwNw1eFv8s
Only the receptacle, the terminal pins need to be bought separately but I'm going to search the same site for those and the 2x7 Molex receptacle and terminal pins for it also.
I'll post links to the pages as I find the parts as unless you want to cut into your existing on-vehicle loom, you'll need these parts.

Thanks Gilbertd and LPGC for the earlier posts. Blue wire for the emulators - and a patch cable is exactly what I'm aiming for.

[Gilbertd]

I thought it was probably TE Connectivity. The pins for those come in a strip of 100 and I've got a strip with about 90 still left on it (as I only needed 8) so can drop 25 of them (so you have some spares) in the post rather than you buying a complete strip too unless that supplier does them in smaller quantities. You'll need a proper W crimp tool to fit them.

[Pinger]

I thought it was probably TE Connectivity. The pins for those come in a strip of 100 and I've got a strip with about 90 still left on it (as I only needed so can drop 25 of them (so you have some spares) in the post rather than you buying a complete strip too unless that supplier does them in smaller quantities. You'll need a proper W crimp tool to fit them.

If you are happy to do that Gilbertd, then I will happily accept. I'll PM you a postal address?
Taking advice from a MB Club member (automotive connectors are his day job) and as my preference is to solder, he reckoned OK to solder them and then just fold the crimp parts with needle nose pliers. Sound OK?

Found Molex 2x7 here >>
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003 ... 1668694881
Not in any particular hurry so AliExpress ETAs are preferable to the absurd pricing of others. Not sure exactly what I've ordered - either, 5 sets of various Molex paired connectors cw terminal pins or, 5 of the 14 way version. If the latter, the surplus will be offered to you guys FOC. ETA is 23rd Dec - I should know by then.

[Pinger]

Zip version
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AigNPuwBlwA-jKR-kIq ... Q?e=KLynFb

You should be able to handle Rar files with Winrar - https://www.rarlab.com/ has download version valid for 30 days (but can be used forever just has an annoying popup when launched)

Key would be to unlock it (the software) though I've never known of anyone to actually buy a license for winrar

Got the version you posted the link for earlier onto a lap-top and seems to work OK. Can be configured without being hooked up to the vehicle - a welcome development over the 175.
Being a newer version than 175, is 170 likely to offer any benefits over the 175? Eg, faster stepper reaction times? Worth shifting over to 170 or just hold as a spare?

The Zip version of the software BTW, gave me a security warning when I went to download it - so I swerved it.

The convertor your after is like the bottom lead in this listing

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363838161892

Its the female plug your after though, the photo above is the male one which is already on the ECU loom?

I'm going to do as LPGC suggests and add the Supaseal in parallel to my USB lead. Thanks for the pic of the box with the pin-out diagram on it. Now I know how to wire it!

[Brian_H]

i think thats part of the reason Zip has tended not to be used - its literally the same files decompressed from Rar and zipped so should be fine!

No idea on 170 vs 175, whilst I've got a couple of them the furthest I've got with them is testing hooked up to a battery and cable, brought as a just in case job as said above (second one for spares just in case I end up using the other one, as at that price I couldn't argue!)

[Pinger]

I think I've found the main receptacle (£5 all in) here >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174150307259 ... SwNw1eFv8s

The above arrived today. It is the correct part.

[Gilbertd]

You'd best PM me an address so you have some pins to put in it then......

[Pinger]

i think thats part of the reason Zip has tended not to be used - its literally the same files decompressed from Rar and zipped so should be fine!

Whichever one I used (the first one you posted link to) loaded really easy. The AEB 175 software was a lot more involved to load. The 170's is a breeze.

No idea on 170 vs 175, whilst I've got a couple of them the furthest I've got with them is testing hooked up to a battery and cable, brought as a just in case job as said above (second one for spares just in case I end up using the other one, as at that price I couldn't argue!)

Not long into this thread I realised that the 170 wasn't an alternative to 175 but actually supersedes it. Given what progress is meant to deliver, I'm just curious if the working performance improves on the 175's. I guess the only way to know is to try it. The ease of software loading and that configuration can be set without being hooked up to the vehicle is welcome progress.

Like you, I bought a couple - one for a spare for the Chevy, the other on the off-chance there's another vehicle that comes into my orbit I want to convert to LPG. When I started this thread, I honestly feared I'd missed the boat with them being priced so reasonably - thankfully not. Even if a person has zero interest in LPG whatsoever they should still buy one kit. Then they can look back on 2022 and say there was at least one bargain to be had!

[Pinger]

I've started adapting the AEB 170 Galileo wiring to mate with the AEB Leonardo loom as it is on my truck - and there's complications!
Following two photos show the multiplug that connects to the AEB 175 Leo and below each the colours of the wires.

IMG_5308.JPG (1.14 MiB) Viewed 3105 times

Wire colours: Orange; White; Pink; Red/White; Dark Blue; Yellow x 2; Red; Red/Black.
Of these, the White one is the one causing concern.

IMG_5307.JPG (1.23 MiB) Viewed 3105 times

Wire colours: Black; Brown; Orange; Green?; Purple; Grey; (thin) Black; Pink/Black; Pale Blue; Purple.
Of these. the duplicated Purples, the Green, and the Pale Blue are the ones causing concern.

Re the first photo.
Orange - temp sensing as I understand it - can be ignored.
White - what is it for?
Dark Blue - I can see the same colour (and shade) heading to the emulators so assume this lead is the one that powers the LPG solenoids and is slaved to the emulators.

Re the second photo.
Orange - the second orange wire. Temp sensing? Why two and if only one is for temp sensing - which?
Green - ???
Pale Blue - ???
Purple - the second purple but as the purple on the other row sits next to the grey, I'm assuming it (not this one) connects to the O2 sensor - if so, what's this one for?

No sign of the Blue/Yellow though possibly it is the wire I have identified as Green (very little shows as it is sheathed in black)
The Orange and White (in first photo) and the Pale Blue and Purple (in the second photo) enter an individual sheath suggesting some common purpose).

If we take the 9 main wires showing on both AEB 175 Leo and AEB 170 Gal, add 4 for the diagnostics, another 4 for the change-over switch, and 2 for the tank gauge we have 19 wires. The AEB 170 Gal has a 22 way (2 x 11) Molex plug - and no yellow wires. All 22 pins are utilised.
My AEB 175 Leo has 19 utilised pins. The 2 Yellows I can disregard, one of the Oranges meaning I have in effect 16 active pins - and 22 pins to connect with.

Any ideas? Especially re the Orange; White; Pale Blue; Purple which appear to be grouped together? Is the Dark Blue in the first photo the gas solenoid/emulator wire?

I have additional questions - diagnostic plug wire colours (not as Brian-H's photo suggests), and AEB 170 Gal compatibility with AEB 175 Leo change-over switch/tank gauge (as AEB 170 Gal switch won't fit existing fitting on dash and retaining the AEB 175 Leo one is preferable from that perspective)) but sorting out the main ECU plug is enough for now I think!

[Brian_H]

The photo (and colours) I think are the ones on the interface in the photo, the pinout should be the same though.

Green according to both manuals is level sensor - depending which sensor you have fitted its either used or not along with the white wire (do you have both the manuals? If not drop me your email in a PM and I'll email them to you)

Looking at the other diagrams, you have the stepper which you haven't mentioned - these could be using some of the unaccounted for wires. Also don't know if the same stepper is used on both systems.

The 170 shows white red and blue going to the switch, that might account for your pale blue?

You could always unplug the ecu and switch/stepper and start probing with a mutlimeter set for continuity on each loom? That might be a better idea than trying to colour match looms which are similar but not identical? Or just swap the loom over and remove any chance of issues with the stepper or control panel?

[Pinger]

The photo (and colours) I think are the ones on the interface in the photo, the pinout should be the same though.

I couldn't make sense of the colours but, I've just found a short lead that was supplied with my diagnostic/programming cable that has the Supaseal connector on it. I need to check if it's appropriate for AEB 170 Gal but if it is, that's that sorted. NB: anyone who bought the same cable may have the additional connector cable.

Green according to both manuals is level sensor - depending which sensor you have fitted its either used or not along with the white wire

Not that green wire but a different one. I think its the yellow/blue one for the TPS. I'll look for a varying voltage on it with throttle movement tomorrow.

(do you have both the manuals? If not drop me your email in a PM and I'll email them to you)

I have them both - thanks for the offer though.

Looking at the other diagrams, you have the stepper which you haven't mentioned - these could be using some of the unaccounted for wires.

Bingo! That's the unaccounted for 4 wires - the stepper.

Also don't know if the same stepper is used on both systems.

There's a suspicion that they are different. I intend to keep them paired with their respective ECU anyway.

The 170 shows white red and blue going to the switch, that might account for your pale blue?

Don't think so. 'My' pale blue wire is in the main connector. The gauge and switch go via the 14 way (2x7) Molex.

You could always unplug the ecu and switch/stepper and start probing with a mutlimeter set for continuity on each loom? That might be a better idea than trying to colour match looms which are similar but not identical? Or just swap the loom over and remove any chance of issues with the stepper or control panel?

I made sense of the wires to the diagnostic/programming Molex plug with the multimeter but can't even think where to begin with that group of 4 bundled together (Orange; White; Pale Blue; Purple). Maybe it'll occur to me - like the stepper should have!

[Brian_H]

Don't know - working off the manual alone isn't really helping unfortunately.

Bear in mind that the pinout for the stepper may also be different was what I meant to say above as well as the rest of the spec.

[Gilbertd]

If you've now got the plug, I'd better get the pins in the post to you then.....

I've got an AEB175 loom so can get my meter out and identify which of the unknown wires go where. Got nothing planned for tomorrow so I'll get it on the bench. The Blue/Yellow goes to the TPS, that is one I do know.

[Pinger]

The mystery of the unidentified 4 wires is now solved. Struck me as I toddled off to bed last night. And, the answer is as Brian-H identified for the AEB 170 wires - the stepper for the AEB 175! Too much focus on ECU inputs to the neglect of outputs.

[Pinger]

If you've now got the plug, I'd better get the pins in the post to you then.....

I didn't want to hustle you about them so I got what I needed from the 'net. I was going to mention this to you lest you'd posted them and they'd got lost - but decided I'd wait until I'd made some progress with the ones I bought. No harm done.

I've got an AEB175 loom so can get my meter out and identify which of the unknown wires go where. Got nothing planned for tomorrow so I'll get it on the bench. The Blue/Yellow goes to the TPS, that is one I do know.

No need Gilbertd. The wire I was identifying as green is the yellow/blue for the TPS. I'm getting a varying voltage on it as I open/close the throttle.

That's all the wires accounted for - just a case of sliding the pins into their respective positions in the terminal block.
Next is to ascertain if the connector lead with the Supaseal on one end and the 9 hole (5&4) old computer style connector is AEB 170 compatible.

[Gilbertd]

Having now got a 175 loom in front of me I can tell you exactly were each wire goes.

From your first pic

Orange -> Stepper
White -> Stepper
Pink -> Diagnostic Socket
White/Red -> Diagnostic Socket
Blue -> Main output to solenoids
Yellow ->The NO relay contacts
Yellow -> The NO relay contacts
Red -> Ignition switched live
Red/Black -> Permanent live

From your second pic

Black ->
Brown ->
Unused hole
Orange (not there on my loom) -> Temperature sensor (although never connected by anyone)
Blue/Yellow -> TPS
Purple -> Lambda sensor input (usually just Tee'd into the lambda sensor signal wire)
Grey -> Lambda sensor output (not used if Purple is Tee'd)
Black -> Diagnostic socket
Pink/Black -> Diagnostic socket
Pale Blue -> Stepper
Violet -> Stepper

Then there is the other 14 way plug with only 6 ways used
Red -> Changeover switch
Black -> Changeover switch
Brown -> Changeover switch
Blue -> Changeover switch
Green -> Tank level sender
White -> Tank level sender

That should be enough to work out what needs connecting to what to make up an interface once you have some pins (I'll walk down to the post office in a few minutes....).

and you posted while I was doing this. I'll leave it, it may come in useful for someone else.....