OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

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darrenbarker
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OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#1 Post by darrenbarker » Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:18 pm

Hi everyone,
New to the forum, hope it's a friendly place.

I have a Zafira B 1.6 A16XER with an OMVL Dream XXI N conversion. Car is a 10 plate and the conversion was done before we bought the car in 2013. Not had any issues really and use the LPG daily. In the recent months I've had an issue with the car, this may or may not be down to the issue with the OMVL I will explain later, but I will give a brief overview so you get the fuller picture. When I first start the car (on petrol obviously), the car starts fine, I pull off my drive, fine. I drive down the road and within about 30 seconds the car goes lumpy and hesitant. If I dip the clutch, it will stall, but bumps back up. Once the car has run for a few minutes and warmed up a bit I have no other issues all day. This only used to happen when temps were <3c but now it's most days. If the car is left to warm up on the drive for 5 mins, usually all is fine. I have tried changing coolant temp sensors, Ait intake sensor, Plugs LPG6, Diaphragm in rocker cover, Oil and filter, air filter. Had a coild pack about 18 months ago but not changed again recently. OK, that is the back story, I've been chancing a petrol running issue to no current avail. Next things to look at will be 02's and MAP, and Coil Pack.

Fast forward to yesterday and now the LPG is playing. Long beeps and had to turn to petrol. Longer beeps than if running out of gas. From what I can tell, it's an alert to say something is wrong. I tried gas again and same thing, long beeps.

Anyway, long story short, I thought I would get an interface lead and software to try see if any codes are logged. I then realised you can just use a USB FTDI lead and get the right pins GND, RX, TX needed. Found the software to download and away we go.

So I had the following codes logged:

P1005 - MAP Sensor
P1003 - Reducer solenoid valve
P1000 - Gas injectors (2)

Now, wondering if all these are relevant, or if some are old, I cleared the codes, went for a drive and tried to kick the LPG in.
Didn't take long for the alert again, so drove home and checked codes again.

Now Just have:

P1003 - Reducer solenoid valve.

Finally to the question(s).
What could cause this error? I did resistance of the solenoid on the reducer, it reads 13 ohm (I think, trying to remember, will double check but deffo wasn't O/C).
Could this be related to the morning petrol issue?
Would a split diaphragm in the vapouriser cause this, and then let gas into the inlet manifold and possibly cause the other problem?


Thanks for reading this far, any help appreciated.

p.s. OMVL info is a dog to find on the net, it's almost like they don't exist.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#2 Post by Brian_H » Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:01 pm

Worth bearing in mind there is a reducer solenoid as well as a tank solenoid, and theres no guarantee that they have been connected the right way round. Resistance test is a good start, but would help to know if you had it disconnected when testing it. Given it changes over it must manage to open, but they do sometimes fail in a way that they work until they get warm. Any idea which wire colours go to the vapouriser solenoid?

OVML should just be AEB badged ecus - you need the right software to connect to what you've got, but otherwise they are fairly similar.

Other things that can cause the same sort of error would be wiring issues - corrosion on wiring, loose contacts, melted wires where its touched something it shouldn't of, You should be able to rule those sort of issues out by putting a bulb across the solenoid connections to see if its got a decent power supply or not.

On the diaphram front, the usual way this would manifest itself is either by leaking gas somewhere it shouldn't (outside the vapouriser, into the coolant, or up the vacuum connection to the manifold) or by pressure thats not stable, you have the software, what does the pressure show typically and is the reading reasonably constant? leaking into the vacuum hose easy to test for - take the hose off and see. Would usually manifest itself as longer cranking time when trying to start the engine after its been sitting a while.

The stalling when cold issue to me sounds like what you'd expect with a sticky idle control valve on an older car, I would expect yours to have an electronic throttle but that might be the area you need to look around there. The real key there is to switch it to petrol for a day and see how it behaves - if it works on that then you need to start looking at the gas side.

You mention LPG6 plugs - I'd guess these are the NGK ones, General advice on plugs is stick with the standard plugs for the engine, alternative ones rarely perform any better and usually cost more for no real benefit.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#3 Post by Brian_H » Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:02 pm

Also - it might be worth doing a code scan on the petrol side as well on your petrol issues, just in case there is any errors being logged there to give you a clue as to whats going on with it.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#4 Post by darrenbarker » Thu Jul 04, 2019 7:14 pm

Brian_H wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:01 pm
Worth bearing in mind there is a reducer solenoid as well as a tank solenoid, and theres no guarantee that they have been connected the right way round. Resistance test is a good start, but would help to know if you had it disconnected when testing it. Given it changes over it must manage to open, but they do sometimes fail in a way that they work until they get warm. Any idea which wire colours go to the vapouriser solenoid?

OVML should just be AEB badged ecus - you need the right software to connect to what you've got, but otherwise they are fairly similar.

Other things that can cause the same sort of error would be wiring issues - corrosion on wiring, loose contacts, melted wires where its touched something it shouldn't of, You should be able to rule those sort of issues out by putting a bulb across the solenoid connections to see if its got a decent power supply or not.

On the diaphram front, the usual way this would manifest itself is either by leaking gas somewhere it shouldn't (outside the vapouriser, into the coolant, or up the vacuum connection to the manifold) or by pressure thats not stable, you have the software, what does the pressure show typically and is the reading reasonably constant? leaking into the vacuum hose easy to test for - take the hose off and see. Would usually manifest itself as longer cranking time when trying to start the engine after its been sitting a while.

The stalling when cold issue to me sounds like what you'd expect with a sticky idle control valve on an older car, I would expect yours to have an electronic throttle but that might be the area you need to look around there. The real key there is to switch it to petrol for a day and see how it behaves - if it works on that then you need to start looking at the gas side.

You mention LPG6 plugs - I'd guess these are the NGK ones, General advice on plugs is stick with the standard plugs for the engine, alternative ones rarely perform any better and usually cost more for no real benefit.
Thanks for the reply @Brian_H, I'll skim through some answers below to try help things along.

The solenoid was disconnected when I tested it. And it has Solid Blue wire (and a black) to it.
I have the OMVL software which seems to connect and read fine, it also has test optioins for said solenoids, being able to activate the Blue wire or the Blue/White Wire (assuming this one goes to the other solenoid?
All the wiring looked ok on inspection the other day when I looked, but I will lok more thoroughly at the weekend an probably disonnect from LPG ECU and check it out properly, INsulation resistance test and continuity, just to make sure.
Diaphragm wise, I have had the pipe off you mentioned and there doesn't seem to be anything coming out the vapouriser, but this was when the enginne is NOT running, is that the right time?
As for the pressure levels shown in the software, assuming these are to be read whilst the car is running on gas?

Stalling when cold issue, thanks again for your pointers, I have already had the throttle body off and clean and checked that it can open, close, and return, fine. Also checked the breather to the cam cover, quite a big one on these though, so no issues. Also tried running on just petrol, even for as long as a week with the gas tank showing empty. Still same issue.

I had read the codes on the cars main ECU and had P0170-12 code but didn't know if it was an old one or new as no light was on, why don't they date stamp these things :lol: anyway, cleared it about 2 weeks ago and it didn't come back so assumed it was old news. Lo adn behold EML comes on today whilst wife was driving, just done a quick pedal test an it's P0170-12 again. I know as much as that the code mean Fuel Trim Malfunction, but not much more than that. Assuming its because the engine is trying to over compensate one way or the other. I did get some live data with opcom a couple of weeks ago too.

Bank 1 02 seems to show rich more than lean and stft's vary from -21 to +5 ish. I've always said this issue is like it's overfuelling / flooding.

Any tips on what to try next?

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#5 Post by Brian_H » Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:18 pm

darrenbarker wrote:
Thu Jul 04, 2019 7:14 pm
Brian_H wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:01 pm
Worth bearing in mind there is a reducer solenoid as well as a tank solenoid, and theres no guarantee that they have been connected the right way round. Resistance test is a good start, but would help to know if you had it disconnected when testing it. Given it changes over it must manage to open, but they do sometimes fail in a way that they work until they get warm. Any idea which wire colours go to the vapouriser solenoid?

OVML should just be AEB badged ecus - you need the right software to connect to what you've got, but otherwise they are fairly similar.

Other things that can cause the same sort of error would be wiring issues - corrosion on wiring, loose contacts, melted wires where its touched something it shouldn't of, You should be able to rule those sort of issues out by putting a bulb across the solenoid connections to see if its got a decent power supply or not.

On the diaphram front, the usual way this would manifest itself is either by leaking gas somewhere it shouldn't (outside the vapouriser, into the coolant, or up the vacuum connection to the manifold) or by pressure thats not stable, you have the software, what does the pressure show typically and is the reading reasonably constant? leaking into the vacuum hose easy to test for - take the hose off and see. Would usually manifest itself as longer cranking time when trying to start the engine after its been sitting a while.

The stalling when cold issue to me sounds like what you'd expect with a sticky idle control valve on an older car, I would expect yours to have an electronic throttle but that might be the area you need to look around there. The real key there is to switch it to petrol for a day and see how it behaves - if it works on that then you need to start looking at the gas side.

You mention LPG6 plugs - I'd guess these are the NGK ones, General advice on plugs is stick with the standard plugs for the engine, alternative ones rarely perform any better and usually cost more for no real benefit.
Thanks for the reply @Brian_H, I'll skim through some answers below to try help things along.

The solenoid was disconnected when I tested it. And it has Solid Blue wire (and a black) to it.
I have the OMVL software which seems to connect and read fine, it also has test optioins for said solenoids, being able to activate the Blue wire or the Blue/White Wire (assuming this one goes to the other solenoid?
All the wiring looked ok on inspection the other day when I looked, but I will lok more thoroughly at the weekend an probably disonnect from LPG ECU and check it out properly, INsulation resistance test and continuity, just to make sure.
Diaphragm wise, I have had the pipe off you mentioned and there doesn't seem to be anything coming out the vapouriser, but this was when the enginne is NOT running, is that the right time?
As for the pressure levels shown in the software, assuming these are to be read whilst the car is running on gas?

Stalling when cold issue, thanks again for your pointers, I have already had the throttle body off and clean and checked that it can open, close, and return, fine. Also checked the breather to the cam cover, quite a big one on these though, so no issues. Also tried running on just petrol, even for as long as a week with the gas tank showing empty. Still same issue.

I had read the codes on the cars main ECU and had P0170-12 code but didn't know if it was an old one or new as no light was on, why don't they date stamp these things :lol: anyway, cleared it about 2 weeks ago and it didn't come back so assumed it was old news. Lo adn behold EML comes on today whilst wife was driving, just done a quick pedal test an it's P0170-12 again. I know as much as that the code mean Fuel Trim Malfunction, but not much more than that. Assuming its because the engine is trying to over compensate one way or the other. I did get some live data with opcom a couple of weeks ago too.

Bank 1 02 seems to show rich more than lean and stft's vary from -21 to +5 ish. I've always said this issue is like it's overfuelling / flooding.

Any tips on what to try next?
Yes you want to test the vacuum line when its running on gas, though you might find if it was a problem it was leaking anyway.
Yes pressure when running on gas as well, though can be helpful to watch what the pressure does when its been on gas and back to petrol as well

The eml coming on sounds like the gas causing the fuel trims to max out, probably a symptom of the problem with running badly on gas.

Easiest way to confirm its the right solenoid (I'm on a laptop with a small screen here away from home on slow wifi) is to pull the connector off, and try to get it to switch, that will tell you by the error generated which solenoid is wired as the front one, otherwise have a look for the ovml wiring diagram - might be with the software, which you can find here > https://tinleytech.co.uk/lpg-software/sgis/

Bear in mind a poor battery connection can cause issues, though usually more random than your getting, its worth checking while you are there (including the inline fuse holder, take the fuse out and check its not gone green underneath the fuse contacts)

It could be an intermittent fault on the solenoid, though i doubt thats your only issue given what you've said above. Some idea of the map would help those more in the know on here respond - can you screenshot that page and post it back onto here?

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#6 Post by Brian_H » Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:28 pm

The wiring diagram is on the link i posted above - and the blue/white is the tank solenoid, blue is the vapouriser one.

It might be worth considering a replacement solenoid coil given its generating errors and they are a reasonably cheap item to replace, though i doubt its the only problem you have it would be a start.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#7 Post by LPGC » Thu Jul 04, 2019 10:32 pm

Same issue on petrol... So unlikely to be an LPG issue. As I'm sure you know, the LPG system takes it's primary input (petrol injector pulse duration) from the petrol system... which means that most petrol system issues (sensors / vacuum leaks / etc) will be reflected when running on LPG.

With the symptoms you've described I'd be looking at the MAF, primary lambda sensor, looking for vacuum leaks (particularly around the evap purge / EGR / brake servo connections to the manifold) and hoping the petrol ECU wasn't playing up... Petrol ECU issues aren't uncommon on these engines but they usually manifest first with misfire symptoms due to fuel or spark shut-off due to falsely detecting open circuit petrol injectors or coil packs. Actual coil pack issues are also common but if the ECU reports a dodgy coil and a replacement pack doesn't cure it the ECU is usually at fault / Or if the ECU reports a dodgy petrol injector it is usually the ECU (not petrol injector) at fault. They're also prone to cam/crank sensor issues but the ECI can point to the wrong sensor (cam instead of crank and vice/versa). Such petrol ECU issues on some Vauxhall engines seems more common on LPG converted ones than on none LPG converted ones, so since the only difference (electrically) the petrol Ecu will see when running on LPG is resistance of petrol injectors (around 16 ohms for a petrol injector but around 40ohms with an LPG install electrically emulating a petrol injector) I fit additional emulation on my Vauxhall LPG conversions to prevent the petrol ECU failing in said way. Petrol ECUs on Vauxhalls I convert see 16Ohms across petrol injector wiring. ;-)
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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#8 Post by darrenbarker » Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:06 am

A couple more good replies, thanks. Certainly some points of direction for me to attack.

Just a note to clarify, the first run of the day running / stalling issue is not when running on gas. By the time the car is warm enough to swap to gas, it is running fine. The gas issues is the P1003 (And possibly the other codes). I just documented t give a fuller picture and see if they are related.

I'm going to do some digging about at the weekend and see how I get on. I have already checked for vacuum leaks to an extent with a propane torch. Wasnt sure of all the places to check though, so will go at it again. I guess if there is already LPG leaking in somewhere, maybe propane won't find a leak anyways. Maybe some sort of smoke test is needed.

Will keep you updated!

Cheers

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#9 Post by darrenbarker » Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:26 pm

I've had an hour or so playing about to see what I could come up with.
Notes from today:
  • There were a couple of wire that were worn through to the copper, I have covered them in insulation tape for now as I can't find my loom tape. Going to order some loom tape and sort them proper. 1 was a black ground anyway so no issue there. The main car ECU cluster had a couple of cores worn down so copper was just showing. This had been rubbing on some of the LPG loom that was wrapped in loom tape so was a bit rough. Nothing shorting out so all good. 1 core going to the LPG MAP was practically worn through. Jointed that and sealed. None of this seemed to be the issue as it is still present, but it needed doing
  • re-checked the vapouriser solenoid - 13 ohm. checked wiring up to lpg ecu - ok
  • Checked injector solenoids (just while i was in the area with the meter. All show 3.3 ohm, so ok
  • Coming off the LPG injector rail there are 5 hoses, 4 go to 1 to each injector and the 5th on the end goes to the LPG MAP sensor block. When I moved this hose a bit, I could hear a leak and it smelt of Gas. The pressure seemed residual as it soon stopped. I re-made the hose off and re-fit. Checked for leak since and all ok. Should this has Gas in it? The reason I ask this is because it goes to the MAP sensor and that has a vacuum line also from Vapouriser and Intake. Assuming these aren't connected through in the MAP block as it would be letting gas into inlet manifold.
  • I run the car and tried to get it to run on LPG, The vapouriser solenoid clicks once then a few seconds later clicks again. It's like it either gives up or the system isn't seeing something it expects, so turns it off. Then reports the reducer solenoid valve DTC.
  • Checked all around the vapouriser for leaks whilst I had leak detector out, seems good
  • Managed to get the LPG running for a bit on the drive whilst stationary by repeatedly clearing code and trying to activate. I took the vacuum line off the back of vapouriser as mentioned in a previous post. The hose has suction and no gas is coming out the vapouriser. It ran OK for a few minutes, I then decided to go for test drive and the error flagged up within 30 seconds of the car being under load.
  • Whilst idling on drive on LPG, if I cover the end of exhaust, I get water bubble blowing out of the side seam of back box, near tail pipe. Must have a poor rolled joint on box but can't see it causing issues. Should there be water in it though? It sounds hollow, so its not like it's full, but enough for it to force out. Exhaust itself doesn't seem blocked.
  • One very interesting point (to me anyway) the gas pressure seems steady at just under 1.9 bar when ticking over on petrol, but when you blip the throttle, gas pressure drops to 1.2 ish bar and then recovers. Is this normal? Not sure how running on petrol can affect gas pressure unless it's something to do with vacuum line going to vapouriser.
  • Whilst running on gas, gas pressure idles around 1.09 bar, fluctuates between about 1.05 and 1.20 when throttle blipped
  • MAP idles at 0.33 bar, jumping up to about 1 bar when throttle is blipped.
  • Lastly EML is still on on car with P0170 code, couldn't get my opcom to run today though, keeps coming up asking for me to activate it. Seems to @!## out whenever I play with FTDI drivers. So I couldn't look at that side. Or even see if the code is still present or would clear. Also, as the car had been running today before I played, I couldn't check the 'first run of the day' stalling issue, but I'm assuming it is still there. Guilty until proven innocent.
I'm really hoping some of this info spurs someone on to knowing the issue. Anything else you think I could check to help, let me know and I'll get on it when I get 5 mins.
Couple of things I have just thought to check next time are 1) if the LPG pressure stays steady once engine is turned off. I'm assuming the software will report it. 2) errr, dunno, it's gone again now :lol:
Thanks

I do have a couple of vidoes showing the above readings, Don't know how I could share them if wanted though. 20 second vid is > 30mb.

Below is the MAP, as requested
2019-07-07 (1).png
2019-07-07 (1).png (67.11 KiB) Viewed 193 times

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#10 Post by darrenbarker » Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:42 pm

I've just remembered the 2nd thing on the to-check list. I have remove the reducer solenoid and will find a 12v supply to test it with. See if it activates and stays activated whilst off the car.
cheers

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#11 Post by Brian_H » Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:53 pm

If you just have the coil, since there is no moving parts there, you won't be able to tell if its working or not (the moving bits are under the post it is attached to, and if you've removed those then the gas system isn't sealed).

On the map sensor, I know the type you mean, as long as gas isn't coming out of the vacuum side of it I wouldn't worry about it, they generally are a combined unit.

Water in the exhaust is normal on lpg running - theres always some when petrol is burnt as a side product of combustion, there will be more on gas as it produces more than petrol does, nothing to worry about there.

See what Simon says about your map, if you want to try and narrow down the fault with the solenoid coil have a look at the one on the tank, you might be able to swap them over if the connectors and type match, and see if the fault follows.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#12 Post by darrenbarker » Mon Jul 08, 2019 6:21 am

Will do Brian, thanks. I took it off mainly to try and match it up ready for if I need a new one. Searching for OMVL Reducer solenoid doesn't get me anywhere. It's a 12v 11w solenoid so assuming its a matter of getting one to same spec and right size hole etc.

p.s. it's just the coil I have off, the gas is still sealed and fuse out.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#13 Post by Gilbertd » Mon Jul 08, 2019 10:02 am

Replacement coil should be listed in here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-catego ... lectrical/
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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#14 Post by Brian_H » Mon Jul 08, 2019 8:12 pm

And yes, match the centre hole and terminals (unless you want to swap the terminals to a different type of course).

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#15 Post by darrenbarker » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:42 pm

Here an interesting bit.
Other evening I had a tinker for an hour or 2, mainly wrapping the wiring loom bits that were looking iffy. I also decided to look at exactly what the LPG DTC code told me to and had a look to see if I could dismantle the solenoid shaft to check the plunger (if this si the right term). Anyway, it came to bits easily enough. The plunger looked a bit coked up and didn't seem to run very smooth in it's shaft. The spring also seemed to jamp at times. I clean it all up and put back together with it sliding quite a bit smoother now.
I then went for a test drive, car drove perfect on LPG for 15 - 20 mins. Nothing went wrong, the journey ended.
The next day (yesturday) the wife used the car, driving around doing shoopping, etc. Says it started and run fine, run around on LPG through the day, fine. Petrol side EML had also cleared.
Today she went out again, was fine for about 30 mins, then LPG alerted again and had to switch back to petrol. a little while later and petrol EML came back on.

DOH!!!! So close, but so far away. I can't help feel like I'm homing in on the problem. Maybe a fun rebuild seal kit for the vapouriser?

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#16 Post by Brian_H » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:59 pm

It should slide easily - and if it isn't, you wouldn't usually get an error, just switching back due to lack of pressure. The stickyness is from heavy ends (oily bits dissolved in the lpg which separate when the vapouriser reduces the pressure and can get deposited inside it).

If its really clogged up with that sort of stuff, it may be worth getting the vapouriser hot, and trying to drain it if there is a suitable outlet, equally it might be worth taking the solenoid apart again to check it hasn't dislodged more to get it stuck again.

The post should move easily in and out when you have it disassembled, returning to the extended position due to the spring on the top end of it to close the valve when its not being held by the coil.

If your going to order a rebuild kit for the vapouriser, I'd order a coil at the same time though.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#17 Post by darrenbarker » Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:21 pm

Brian_H wrote:
Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:59 pm
It should slide easily - and if it isn't, you wouldn't usually get an error, just switching back due to lack of pressure. The stickyness is from heavy ends (oily bits dissolved in the lpg which separate when the vapouriser reduces the pressure and can get deposited inside it).

If its really clogged up with that sort of stuff, it may be worth getting the vapouriser hot, and trying to drain it if there is a suitable outlet, equally it might be worth taking the solenoid apart again to check it hasn't dislodged more to get it stuck again.

The post should move easily in and out when you have it disassembled, returning to the extended position due to the spring on the top end of it to close the valve when its not being held by the coil.

If your going to order a rebuild kit for the vapouriser, I'd order a coil at the same time though.
Thanks again for the quick reply Brian.
When I was first pushing it in/out. sometimes it didn't slide all the way in easily, sometimes it didn't come all the way out. Its seemed like the spring was chewing up a bit. Was much better after clean and I stretched the spring slightly to help make sure it returned ok. but could be clogged again. It wasn't exactly gunked up, just a bit sooty.
I have found new reducers on LPGshop.co.uk and they seem reasonable price, probably better just getting full shebang rather than trying luck with seal kit and coil. Then as I was trying to figure out if I had a Standard/Medium/High power (Assuming Standard and looking at labels, it would seem so) I noticed that they aren't in stock and can't seem to find them anywhere else either. The reducer is a Dream XXI G. No MP or HP after model so assuming SP. Only other reducers I seem to be able to find are Dream XXI N. I have no idea if these are just a revamped model or completely different and non-compatible.

Are you saying in the above post, that the error code is likely coming on due to lack of system pressure?
Do you think a seal kit / coil would sort it.
I do understand that these things can be difficult to diagnose over the interweb net.

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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#18 Post by Brian_H » Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:44 pm

The advantage with a new one, is you know you aren't going to have problems with fixings that won't come undone, or worn bits that aren't part of the kit. Doesn't matter what brand the unit is, long as its upto the job capacity/power wise, the main advantage with using the same as you have, is that the pipework will be in the right place. That said, theres nothing you've said above that says to me theres anything wrong with the one you've got, beyond the solenoid issue (which may be an issue that only shows up once the solenoid warms up a bit when its in use).

LPGC
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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#19 Post by LPGC » Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:43 am

If you look in the Parameters section of software you will see the reference/reducer/pressure setting. Usually if this is set at around 0.9 bar you'd need an SP reducer, 1.2/1.3 bar need an MP reducer and 1.6/1.7 bar need an HP reducer. However, the numbers in your map are high which (presuming your map has numbers ball park correct) suggests that whatever the pressure setting is in software the pressure really needs to be higher... So if your pressure is set to 0.9bar instead of buying an SP reducer buy an MP reducer. I nearly also said if pressure is set to 1.2/1.3 bar buy an HP reducer but don't do that unless the main feed pipe is 8mm (not 6mm)... because it's doubtful your install needs that much pressure on this engine if your injector nozzles are anything like correct, and also because the HP reducer will have a solenoid valve with 8mm inlet but your reducer probably has a 6mm gas inlet (and 6mm piping). Solenoid valves are interchangeable but you don't want to refit your old solenoid if there's a problem with it (and/or you want to replace it at same time as reducer).

The newer spec OMVL Dream reducers aren't the same as the old spec though.. they look the same but won't flow anything near as much gas as they old spec, this won't be a problem on your relatively low powered Zafira though. Also, instead of the old 3 types (SP MP HP) there's now just 2 types (standard and high power) but the standard ones are adjustable between 0.9 and 1.2/1.3 bar anyway - so buy a standard one.

How old is the conversion? Are the injectors silver metal bodied or black plastic bodied and what colour are the coils on the injectors?
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darrenbarker
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Re: OMVL P1003 - Reducer Solenoid Valve

#20 Post by darrenbarker » Fri Jul 12, 2019 6:51 pm

LPGC wrote:
Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:43 am
If you look in the Parameters section of software you will see the reference/reducer/pressure setting. Usually if this is set at around 0.9 bar you'd need an SP reducer, 1.2/1.3 bar need an MP reducer and 1.6/1.7 bar need an HP reducer. However, the numbers in your map are high which (presuming your map has numbers ball park correct) suggests that whatever the pressure setting is in software the pressure really needs to be higher... So if your pressure is set to 0.9bar instead of buying an SP reducer buy an MP reducer. I nearly also said if pressure is set to 1.2/1.3 bar buy an HP reducer but don't do that unless the main feed pipe is 8mm (not 6mm)... because it's doubtful your install needs that much pressure on this engine if your injector nozzles are anything like correct, and also because the HP reducer will have a solenoid valve with 8mm inlet but your reducer probably has a 6mm gas inlet (and 6mm piping). Solenoid valves are interchangeable but you don't want to refit your old solenoid if there's a problem with it (and/or you want to replace it at same time as reducer).

The newer spec OMVL Dream reducers aren't the same as the old spec though.. they look the same but won't flow anything near as much gas as they old spec, this won't be a problem on your relatively low powered Zafira though. Also, instead of the old 3 types (SP MP HP) there's now just 2 types (standard and high power) but the standard ones are adjustable between 0.9 and 1.2/1.3 bar anyway - so buy a standard one.

How old is the conversion? Are the injectors silver metal bodied or black plastic bodied and what colour are the coils on the injectors?
Just been out and had half an hour on it. Double checked the reducer solenoid, still moving freely. Checked that the reducer filter wasn't blocked. Checked the Vapour side filter wasn't blocked. tried to strip down the injector block to check inside, sure as damn it, last screw holding the plate with the stems in won't come out and is stripping so would have to drill it out. grrrrrr.
Not sure which bit you mean by 'the injectors' when asking about the construction. The injector block is plastic, the stems/posts are metal. The coils are blue plastic. If it is the bits that go into the manifold, I have no idea, I can't see them for love nor money. Hopefully that is some understandable terminology.

Where abouts in Yorkshire are you LPGC and roughly what do you think something like this would cost to diagnose at a garage? I know it's a bit open ended. I'm blooy skint at moment (hence I'm trying to sort it myself) after being made redundant 3 weeks ago. I'm working again, but playing catchup on the lost income. Going on holiday down south in about 4 weeks and could do with it sorting for then like.

Cheers

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