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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:13 am
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Location: Stenalees, Cornwall
Hi all, After partially following previous advice, I am now the proud owner of lots of white boxes with some bits inside! I ended up going for the king ecu kit with obd connection, OMVL CPR reducer and OMVL REG injectors. Without doubt, I'm going to have quite a few questions as this is my first DIY fit, so I've started this thread to keep all the q's and a's in one place. I'm hoping that you gents won't mind answering my, sometimes stupid, questions. I'm hoping to document the fit here also to help any other people that might attempt a similar conversion. Progress on this one may be slow, but hopefully will be done correctly.

OK. First questions!!!
As those of you who are familiar with this engine bay, the engine is crammed right at the back with a huge gap at the front, presumably this is to accommodate the 6 cylinder engines. I've placed my components in positions that I consider to be fairly neat but could cause other problems. The first of which is reducer location. I have chosen the o/s of the engine bay as there's a nice little spot with 3 m6 studs (unused) on the inner wing. I will use these and fashion a bracket to hold the reducer, unfortunately my heater hoses run along the opposite inner wing! Running hoses across the engine bay isn't a problem for me but will these long hoses affect lpg change over time? Would it be possible to connect the reducer in series with the oil cooler pipes rather that in parallel with the heater matrix? Also with regards to injector positioning, I believe that it is good practice to have the gas outlets as the lowest point to allow any oils etc to drain into the inlet manifold, can you just confirm this for me as this does make life a little awkward due to head height beneath the bonnet. I am working 12hr nights all over the weekend so I doubt I will start any works until Monday. I'd just like to get a clear plan of attack before I proceed.

Many thanks to all. Kind regards Chris.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:21 pm
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Location: Midlands
Thats right , the 7 p's ....proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance !
When you say oil cooler pipes do you mean the water cooler ? Obviously not oil. I suppose i have to admit that on a certian breed of audi i do that as they are easier to get to. In series yes.
But long coolant pipes will have very little affect on change over time, its a pumped, sealed system (hopefully) as long as the pipes all stay in the engine bay, and dont get nasty windchill along route you will be ok.
Now, if you are struggling with getting your injector blocks location right, you could consider pre warming them using your long coolant pipes along the way. Reducing the possibility of heavy ends forming, as its only first thing when the change over temp is low that it really happens. As the coolant temp dictates change over and unfortunately not the actual gas change over temp. So coolant temp at say 30 but you will notice gas temp at that point is only actually 1 or 2 degrees. So you up the change over to compensate to say 45 where the gas temp is 9-10 degrees. Which makes things better. But a couple of hundred yards longer first thing. Not really noticeable in the grander scheeme of things. But definetely noticeable with injector longevity.
Is this the valvetronic ? Oh we are going to have some fun and games later on in this thread !
Install it all as normal... Standard map set up etc. it has to be installed just as every other system.
A bizarre left feild question for you if it is ! Does the cigarette lighter socket come on when you put the key in the ignition and go off when you take it out ? Put your phone charger in and see.. All will become clear, dont worry :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:13 am
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Location: Stenalees, Cornwall
First reply again Tubbs!!! Thanks. The oil cooler that i'm refering to is a f.p.h.e. Obviously I would connect to the water side of it, although I thank you for not assuming that, I was wondering whether these would only circulate hot water before the thermostat opens.
This is a valvetronic motor. I'm hoping that this isn't going to cause me to much of a headache. On that subject, is there anything special that i have to do with the vacuum side of things as there is no vacuum in the inlet manifold as i understand it? I've only ordered the front end kit at the moment without any pipes, I was planning on fittng everything and then ordering evreything else i needed along with the tank. Then plumbing everything in. Obviously i'm going to blank the nozzles to prevent the engine drawing through them until they are connected to the injectors.
I am really looking forward to starting this and hopefully with everyones help on here, it will be very successful!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:13 am
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Location: Stenalees, Cornwall
Tubbs wrote:
Does the cigarette lighter socket come on when you put the key in the ignition and go off when you take it out ? Put your phone charger in and see.. All will become clear, dont worry :lol:
I hate sentences that end " Don't worry"!!! I've just checked and the socket is permanently live. :?: Please tell me this is good news.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:21 pm
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Location: Midlands
I was just checking, may or may not be important. But if its on all the time it's not any use. Even though its got no vaccum, you still need to connect up the vac line as if it wasn't. So manifold vaccum, teed into the reducer to the map/pressure sensor. Vaccum is still present in places and the gas ecu still uses it as reference. But ignores it at tick over as I understand it.


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