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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:32 pm 
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Well its reasonable to assume the lead works, but if its not the same laptop as you used before i could be driver related or a daft com port causing issues. I'd suspect given you have transplanted it from one engine to another that something isn't right with the wiring as it should at least try to switch (though it would probably run badly if at all in its current state) so try to stop it beeping then give it another go.

Yes you should be able to check the pins at the connector, though I'd have a look in the fuse holder first as you might not need to go further. If its got a poor connection somewhere it may be enough power to wake it up, but not able to do much more due to a lack of current. Also note if anywhere on the wiring seems to be getting warm/hot that this may indicate where your fault is.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 11:08 am 
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On most ECU's including your Stag 300-4 the only wires that need to be correct for the ECU to talk to the laptop are battery 12v, earth and ignition on 12volts... it's possible just to connect those 3 wires from the LPG loom up to a battery (not even fitted to a vehicle or vehicle injector wiring etc) to talk to the ECU with the interface. If you suspect wiring I'd start by checking the ignition on wire, we'd usually connected this to the +ve side of a petrol injector, If it's incorrectly connected to the -ve side of a petrol injector the switch might still light and beep but the ECU will be switching on and off at the same high speed as petrol injectors and probably won't talk to the laptop.

But most likely being unable to connect will be something to do with the coms setup as Bri said.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:46 pm 
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Quote:
.
Three short acoustic signals followed by a long one – when a controller error occurs

Well I've checked my connections using a multi meter directly to the lpg plug in and my permanent 12v is good, switched 12v is good. The earth is making its way back to the controller plug but there doesn't seem to be a dedicated earth pin but I do get earth continuity on other plug pins.
My 12v switched I took from middle of coil, I could change that to a injected +ve.
In its most basic breakdown I have got 2 problems here, 1 lpg giving me error beeps when I turn ign on and and 2 laptop not talking to controller.

I get the laptop back tomorrow and I think my first job is ensuring com ports working as mentioned.
Kev


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 8:23 pm 
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Injector +ve is usually a better idea than coil +ve, less chance of inducted voltage etc. But wouldn't expect coil +ve to be a problem.

You just need to get connected with software... When you have the laptop back may just find that the only problem regards interface connection is port setup / cable drivers (did you use the same USB port on the laptop) and when connection problems are overcome the software readings will point to the reason for the switch beeping (LPG system OBD error). Shouldn't be a big deal.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 10:00 am 
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Excellent, I'm connected and can see the error. It says "gas injector error 2" The software is much newer now and my old version was buggy.

"gas injector error 2" Unsure if that means injector 2 (great if it is that precise), or generic there's an injector problem on one of them = a code #2?
I'll do a bit of googling and see what comes up.

*Update : #2 was the injector not a generic code number. Closer inspection I had a bent pin. Starightened that out and error gone.

Even better I started up and managed to get running on LPG. Took a couple of goes to get rid of air locks I guess and was very ropey but it ran.

So now to look and find out how to use the software and what each setting should be. I see RPM way off and inot running very nicely so changed to 'double' and rpm's look good. Attempts to use auto calibration were unsuccessful, it kept lowering my rpm and we stalled

Is auto calibration setting something to persue?. I'm going for a drive in a while and will see what happens


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 3:28 pm 
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Gas injector # 2 is exactly what it says... The LPG injector on the green wires is open circuit (probably not plugged in properly).

If you want to run Stag's autocal you're probably better off resetting the ECU first, or at least delete the petrol and LPG maps.

Stag 300/4 - doesn't say ISA2 on it does it?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 3:59 pm 
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Yes it does.. why is that :-?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:10 pm 
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ISA2 is Stag's self tuning gimmick (pre Qbox) that does a bit more than what we usually refer to as autocal, a pro shouldn't want to use the ISA2 aspects but amateurs might find it useful. Settings stored by ISA2 when the system was fitted on the old VW engine would be another good reason for resetting the ECU before running autocal on this one, resetting the ECU will clear all settings that might have been 'learned' for the old engine.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Unfortunately each time I've tried to run the auto calibration the engine dies as it drops the revs too low. I need to read a bit more.
Also the auto learn/update setting required to have auto calibration already run, chicken and egg !


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 6:59 pm 
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I don't remember if running autocal resets rpm adjustments, map shape or petrol/LPG map/load point learning... But resetting the ECU will clear anything that could cause problems for autocal.

Then, if autocal won't perform without the engine dying you might have plugged LPG injector plugs into wrong LPG injectors or might have combination of nozzles and pressure that are too far away ideal for autocal to deal with before the engine dies. Though having said that autocal tends not to work well on engines with idle pinj below 3ms (which some Subaru engines have) because with most spec injectors multiplier has to be particularly high near idle on such engines.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:41 pm 
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Might also help to know what injectors your using, with what nozzles. presume they are the original ones being reused, it might be an idea to consider a replacement set if they are getting a bit worse for wear as they aren't anywhere near as expensive as they used to be now.

Might also help to post the pressure if you can see it shown in the software as that might give some more clues as to whats going on. (screenshot of the settings at idle might give a few pointers?)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:02 am 
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The option to go back to factory defaults for the software has been selected (reset ECU?).
I'll post pictures of pressure later today and try autocal again.
Injectors etc are all in good condition, I hadn't used the vehicle much before engine went kaput, maybe 3000 mines at most, probably nearer 2k


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:21 am 
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Its not just milage though - the rubber seals inside will harden with age. Would also be helpful to confirm the actual injectors your using as Simon would be able to confirm if they are a good choice for the engine in question. It would also confirm if you have a type of injector that uses nozzles to resize or if they are a fixed output, this can effect calibration and may be beneficial to alter that before you go further.

I would think reset ECU would be the right thing in the software, I can't see that meaning much besides restore to the factory settings.

Might also help to confirm what engine (or what vehicle the engine came out out) your using.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:47 am 
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Hi, the engine is a 1995 Subaru normally aspirated 2.0l, its a boxer engine, so horizontally oppposed flat 4. I truly have no idea what inectors are fitted but I have tried ot contact the company that originally installed (they are based in wales so I can't visit, Im in essex, chelmsford to be exact).

The injector plugs need to be on the right plug but how would I know which is which. Would/should the autocal be intelligent enough to work out correct order ?

I would have added some images but it says the board attachement quota has been reached.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:54 am 
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Routing - For each engine cylinder gas injector wiring colour should match petrol injector break wiring colour or routing is incorrect. You've hard wired petrol injector wiring but routing can be corrected by swapping LPG injector plugs.

Stag autocal starts by switching only one engine cylinder to run on gas (so turns petrol injector on that cylinder off and turns gas injector on that cylinder on). But if routing is wrong what will happen is the petrol injector on one cylinder gets turned off but gas injector doesn't get turned on so the cylinder gets no fuel and misfires, while on another cylinder the petrol injector doesn't get turned off but the gas injector gets turned on so this cylinder gets twice as much fuel as it should and also misfires.

If calibration was already somewhere near correct routing could be checked by manually switching a cylinder at a time between petrol/gas or gas/petrol, if the engine continues to run OK with no misfires regardless of which cylinders are switched routing must be OK. If routing seemed incorrect a pro might set a guestimated map, set all cylinders to switch to gas at the same time and then use the method described here to find which cylinders had incorrect routing.

We have to upload images to a hosting site such as Imgur and post links to them.

It's unlikely you'll have injectors I'd have advised for the Subaru engine but you should still get it running OKish. Are your injectors individual, 2 blocks of 2 or a block of 4?
Black metal body with the red coils would be V30.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:31 pm 
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See this thread viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12009 for uploading pics but it's a little out of date as photobucket now wants money so most people are using imgur instead.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 4:01 pm 
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Onedrive should also work as long as you choose the embed option if you have access to it (free with a Microsoft account, so good chance you already have that).


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 4:31 pm 
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Hello,
Yes red topped injectors.
I overlooked something really obvious in hindsight... my old engine was air-cooled, new is water cooled.. guess what I didn't hook up to the reducer.
I also think I had disturbed one of the lpg hoses into the manifold which is annoyingly behind the alternator.
I also had a bent pin in injector 2 to the plug.... makes me look quite great !!
So I rectified those and now it's much happier..
Fine tuning now.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 5:44 pm 
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Just out of interest, did you leave the exhaust to gas feed heat exchanger plumbed in?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 6:23 pm 
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Hi, no I didnt leave any of old exhaust in place, new exhaust system fitted.

It has crossed my mind how the reducer would have got it's temps though with no coolant throughput?


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