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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:19 pm
Posts: 29
Hello
I have a small issue with a recently acquired LS430. It has a 71L toroidal tank so I would expect a fill of around 56 litres when run till it refuses to run on gas anymore. That has been my experience on the 10 previous LPG cars I have owned and enjoyed over the years.

This one, however, shuts off the pump after just 46 litres every time, giving a range of less than 200 miles, which is pretty poor.

What, exactly, controls when the pump shuts off? Is it at all related to the float used to drive the gauge or is there some other valve which determines that?

Any direct experience would be appreciated.

Thanks and regards

Tim

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current LPG cars - LS430 (2), LS400, Rover 75, Rover 827 (2)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:21 pm
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Location: Milton Keynes
it will be the float causing the issue, is it a single or 4 hole tank?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 11:59 pm 
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To elaborate - 4 hole will have a separate float to the level sender, single hole shares the same one as the level sender.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:33 am 
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Hello,
sorry for delay in getting back, a busy week.

Its a toroidal single hole tank.

If I run the tank empty and remove the multi valve is it likely that bending the arm is worthwhile or replace entire valve?

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current LPG cars - LS430 (2), LS400, Rover 75, Rover 827 (2)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:21 pm
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Location: Milton Keynes
New valve is around £40. Theory says they should be correctly adjusted. Practice for me says they are almost always adjusted to underfill.

First step would be to check its actually the right valve - Marked on it should be some figures, which will tell you what size tank its for, and what angle its at. It would be an idea to check that is correct as a first step (if you can get to the valve without having to remove the tank to do so, then you should be able to see that info without removing the valve).

The float arm may have been bent either before installation, or during the installation, so it may be worth removing it to check. Again depends how difficult it is for you to remove the valve which depends on the type of tank you've got installed, and if the valve can be accessed easily with the way the tank is installed into the car. If its easily removed I'd take it out to have a look personally, if its a complete pain (or the wrong valve) I'd look to have a replacement handy as you've got to fill it then empty it every time to check if its fixed.


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