madmart wrote:
Yes its the Necam system , loved by all LOL I got as far as taking the gas distributer off but its been on so long the allen key bolts have fused into the aluminium without being able to take that apart properly I decided that its better to just fit a new kit complete .
A new inlet manifold is not going to happen as they are rarer than the Necam parts but I may be able to drill into top of the manifold to fit the new injectors ( hopefully ) and leave the old ones in place suitably blanked off , ts still a working van so do not want it off the road for to long .
How long did the wiring take you ? thats the thing that I see as a big problem hope to hear back from you Cheers Martin
I did the same thing on a Mondeo that had the EGI system - there are a number of wires that are routed via the lpg system that won't be once your finished - Specifically i found one to the TPS on mine if I remember correctly. But matching those up to the original connections isn't major as they were originally one piece of wire anyway so its just follow the route and match the colours. Wiring wise with a 4 cylinder system your looking at 9 wires to the injector loom, 1 to the coil pack for rpm feed, 3 to goto the tank and front solenoid, 2 more to temp sensor and 1 to the battery (that should be it i think), Rest are modular plugs and should be labelled to make it easy to work out.
I think the original injector break method on mine was the opposite of what you'd do with a sequential system (cut the common positive instead of the negative on each injector) so you may find it easiest when it comes to doing the wiring to remove all the necam bits and put it back to petrol only, check it then runs ok then do the injector breaks afterwards (so you know you haven't done anything thats going to confuse you later!).
With those bolts on the bottom of your distributor (the originals aren't great, almost as soft as chocolate when trying to undo them it seems) you can drill the heads off them fairly easily, once you do that you can remove the lower plate and unscrew them using a pair of pliers. If your at the point of scrapping it otherwise its worth a try, just get some bolts to replace them afterwards. Can you hear relays clicking when its failing to switch? It may be a simple electrical issue (bad connection, dying/dead coil etc) that would be quicker and cheaper to fix than ripping it all off? If your anywhere near Simon it may be worth seeing if you can get him to look at it before condemning it totally (bear in mind also you might want to check its not something like the tank solenoid failing as a new front end won't fix that either).