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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 12:08 am 
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Gilbertd wrote:
Polypipe is solid, it's a very hard plastic and not rubbery at all. The liquid line needs to be capable of withstanding over 10 bar pressure so rubber pipe would just blow up like a balloon. The connections you will have on the vaporiser are a pair of coolant hoses which will be 15/16mm inside diameter and plumbed into the cars cooling system, a 12mm inside diameter vapour outlet hose which will go to the injectors, a small, 4 or 6mm inside diameter pressure connection which will go to a pressure sensor and the inlet manifold (which, I suspect is the 10mm outside diameter hose you have found) and the liquid gas inlet. The gas inlet may be plastic coated copper or could be polypipe which is a hard plastic, semi-rigid pipe looking like this http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/faro-poly-pipe-6-mm-size-x-1-m/. The polypipe will likely go to a shut off solenoid incorporating a filter and then into the vaporiser. The coil I assume you are talking about is on the vaporiser and is another shut off solenoid. If the coil is getting too hot to touch, it is faulty. Rather than checking the resistance while heating it in the oven, try taking it off and connecting it to 12V. If it gets more than slightly warm, it is faulty and breaking down under load.


Just one other thought on this - It might be an idea to check whats being output on the solenoid wires, as if that voltage isn't correct that might be causing problems? Though would be easiest to check the coil itself first as its more accessible.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:19 am 
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Thanks
I connected the coil and after barely 10 minutes is so hot that if you touch it sticks to your hand...
Voltage is 13.2V, not sure its the correct one as the coil says 12V but is not far off...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:34 am 
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Gilbertd wrote:
Polypipe is solid, it's a very hard plastic and not rubbery at all. The liquid line needs to be capable of withstanding over 10 bar pressure so rubber pipe would just blow up like a balloon. The connections you will have on the vaporiser are a pair of coolant hoses which will be 15/16mm inside diameter and plumbed into the cars cooling system, a 12mm inside diameter vapour outlet hose which will go to the injectors, a small, 4 or 6mm inside diameter pressure connection which will go to a pressure sensor and the inlet manifold (which, I suspect is the 10mm outside diameter hose you have found) and the liquid gas inlet. The gas inlet may be plastic coated copper or could be polypipe which is a hard plastic, semi-rigid pipe looking like this http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/faro-poly-pipe-6-mm-size-x-1-m/. The polypipe will likely go to a shut off solenoid incorporating a filter and then into the vaporiser. The coil I assume you are talking about is on the vaporiser and is another shut off solenoid. If the coil is getting too hot to touch, it is faulty. Rather than checking the resistance while heating it in the oven, try taking it off and connecting it to 12V. If it gets more than slightly warm, it is faulty and breaking down under load.


looks exactly like poly pipe...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:42 am 
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this is my vaporizer
http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/ ... off-valve/
the polypipe goes to the 90 deg brass connector near the vapour outlet.
the black coil failed some time ago, I ordered a new valtek coil (blue this time), but it seems it was defective as it overheats, before that I used an old coil that lasted only a month or so before starting to overheat as well.
I tried to connect a larger (tank type) coil to it and this does not overheat, unfortunately has a much bigger hole and it does not open the plunger..
my understanding was that all coils 12V 11V should operate the same, so why the larger coil does not overheat?
On top of that the support of the coil is missing, so I had to use a large washer to keep in place..
I'd rather have a separate valve in an accessible place rather than having to dismantle half car each time I need to get to the vaporiser :)

So I was looking at this
http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/ ... off-valve/
but I guess I need some extra fitting for the polypipe?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:01 am 
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agostino wrote:
Thanks
I connected the coil and after barely 10 minutes is so hot that if you touch it sticks to your hand...
Voltage is 13.2V, not sure its the correct one as the coil says 12V but is not far off...

It's faulty. The car electrics will usually run at around 13.8V even though everything is rated at 12V, that's normal. If you have a multimeter, try checking to see how much current it is drawing. It should be drawing just under 1A but if it is getting that hot I suspect it is drawing much more than that (or your 13.2V supply is giving.

You shouldn't need another valve and getting to the vaporiser is one of those things you might need to do every 100,000 miles or so. Adding another valve will require adding another switched supply to operate it so you could end up overloading the output of the ECU and burning that out. Access shouldn't be too big a problem while everything is working.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:02 pm 
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Gilbertd wrote:
agostino wrote:
Thanks
I connected the coil and after barely 10 minutes is so hot that if you touch it sticks to your hand...
Voltage is 13.2V, not sure its the correct one as the coil says 12V but is not far off...

It's faulty. The car electrics will usually run at around 13.8V even though everything is rated at 12V, that's normal. If you have a multimeter, try checking to see how much current it is drawing. It should be drawing just under 1A but if it is getting that hot I suspect it is drawing much more than that (or your 13.2V supply is giving.

You shouldn't need another valve and getting to the vaporiser is one of those things you might need to do every 100,000 miles or so. Adding another valve will require adding another switched supply to operate it so you could end up overloading the output of the ECU and burning that out. Access shouldn't be too big a problem while everything is working.


Was thinking with another valve just leave the existing one as it currently is, put the other one somewhere close and use the existing wiring to power the new coil only. Though I'd agree that fixing the original valve would be easier overall at the same time. (and doesn't run the risk of creating a gas leak if you don't get the joints right)

And yes, you'd need two of the matching ends for your polypipe, but you need to identify which polypipe it is to get the right ends (6mm or 8mm - should be 6 if thats the right vapouriser, and brand ideally)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 3:13 pm 
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ok, I will get another spare coil.
could someone please link me the correct one for my vaporiser?
I am not sure the one I got is the correct one...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 5:35 pm 
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Phone Tinley Tech, you know what vaporiser you have and they will be able to supply you with the correct one for it.

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'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
'93 Range Rover 4.2 LSE, Lovato LovEco, sold
'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
'97 Range Rover 4.0SE, eGas multipoint, a project.....

Proud to be a member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:59 am 
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There are various brands and specs of nylon high pressure LPG main feed hose but given the other parts fitted on your car it is most likely it will have the usual Faro spec nylon hose. Other brands / types need to use other end fittings (or at least pipe nuts and brass collars) because they have different internal / external diameters. E.g. Emer 8mm internal diameter hose has narrower external diameter than Faro 8mm internal diameter hose.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 2:09 pm 
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Thanks Simon,
I had a word with Tinley and they confirmed that the coil I have is the correct one.
Also the voltage and resistance I measure are correct.
Recommended to clean the pipe where the plunger sits and see how it goes.
I will put a couple of rectifier diodes and drop the voltage to the coil to approximately 10-11 V this way it should run much cooler while still having enough power to open..


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:18 pm 
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ok the pipe where the plunger sits is deformed.
its a no go, it does not move at all...
I will see how it goes if its too troublesome to keep as it is will get a new vaporiser and ask simon if he could help in changing it..


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 9:48 am 
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Ok I managed to fix everything by cleaning with abrasive paper the inside of the plunger housing.
I also installed a bigger coil, tank model, that works perfectly.
And since I was at it, I changed the seals and the membrane of the vaporiser.
Now its running good!


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