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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:45 pm 
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I do wonder if its already lost its config from what you've said, which might explain why it worked originally but not now. And yes it would have to see 3200 rpm real engine running speed to reach the 1600rpm in software, assuming that its reading half across the whole range of speeds, so that could explain the lack of changing.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Edited to make clearer what i tried to say yesterday correctly!


Last edited by Brian_H on Sat Oct 21, 2017 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 10:16 am 
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Daft question maybe but you are checking readings with the engine running?

'In acceleration' only means the rpm has to rise above 1600 (or 3200 if it only reads half rpm), it doesn't mean you have to be actually accelerating.

As Brian implied, if the water temp reading is constantly 0c it shouldn't switch to LPG at all, it should only switch to LPG when water temp reading is above 40c.
Also as Brian said, your settings are consistent with default settings - If you didn't reset the ECU yourself it could be that it loses settings with the battery disconnected, this is something that can happen on old ECUs.

Do all the other readings seem to be correct (besides rpm)? If you're getting incorrect readings from other sensors too it could be that there's an internal ECU problem or a sensor problem. A problem with a failing pressure sensor or vapour temp sensor for example could potentially effect the water temp reading, in this situation an intermittent shorted sensor could up the earth voltage at the reducer temp sensor.

You could temporarily disconnect the water temp sensor and attach a potentiometer (around 5k), turning the pot should allow you to change the temp reading.

It is unlikely your system will register low gas pressure (running out of gas) as an error.

Simon

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 9:12 am
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Location: Birkenhead
Excuse my typo engine capacity is 2300cc

Hi Simon,
You may have missed this earlier.

Quote:
Well progress of a sort.
Connected laptop and started engine. Water temperature = 0deg.C
Drove around until it warmed up. No change still won't change over.
Checked water temperature sensor in the reducer pipes. It seems alright 9k ohms down to 5oo ohms ish. when hot.

Why does it change over when there is no change in water temperature? Does it sense the gas temperature?

Test drove again. still 0 deg C, but it works now.
Pressure 1.43bar
Gas injector time 4.63ms
Petrol injector time 2.49ms
Livello 112
Water temperature 0deg.C
Gas temperature 66deg.C
Voltage for gas injectors 13.43 volts

RPM on laptop reads about half of the tacho on the car. Why?

Taken at standstill.
Do these look like reasonable readings to you? Apart from the water temp. of course.

Rod


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 4:00 pm 
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0c reading taken at standstill with the engine running or engine not running? Presumably with the engine running...

Gas temp doesn't effect changeover.

What colour wires run to the water temp sensor and to the gas temp sensor? (thinking it's possible they're mixed up).

The 0c water temp reading isn't reasonable because you know the reducer is far warmer than 0c, and you have confirmed that the water temp sensor is working OK so this leaves wiring problems, ECU problems, other sensor problems and possible use of incorrect software remaining as potential causes for the 0c reading... presuming your water temp sensor is of the correct spec for your ECU. I haven't checked if your ECU uses the same electrical spec sensor for water temp sensor and vapour temp sensor but it's possible if wiring is mixed up for a vapour temp sensor in warm gas to give a 0c reading if connected to water temp sensor wiring, no need for me to check this because it will be easier for you to check colour of wires going to both sensors.

Simon

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 9:12 am
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Hi Guys.
I've loaded later firmware into the ecu. It now changes over .... mostly.
If i rev it to over 3000 rpm it changes over.
Still shows 0 degrees for water temperature. I've ordered a new temp sender, a wire fell off current one. I should get it tomorrow.
I can't find the config screen anymore. the one with the iignition type on it.

I'll keep you informed.
Rod


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:21 pm
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RodH wrote:
Hi Guys.
I've loaded later firmware into the ecu. It now changes over .... mostly.
If i rev it to over 3000 rpm it changes over.
Still shows 0 degrees for water temperature. I've ordered a new temp sender, a wire fell off current one. I should get it tomorrow.
I can't find the config screen anymore. the one with the iignition type on it.

I'll keep you informed.
Rod


I've tried it on a xp virtual pc and windows 10 desktop. Both display badly and cut half the screen off the visible area.

If your on the main menu press f1 should then be able to see it.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:56 pm 
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Brian_H wrote:
RodH wrote:
Hi Guys.
I've loaded later firmware into the ecu. It now changes over .... mostly.
If i rev it to over 3000 rpm it changes over.
Still shows 0 degrees for water temperature. I've ordered a new temp sender, a wire fell off current one. I should get it tomorrow.
I can't find the config screen anymore. the one with the iignition type on it.

I'll keep you informed.
Rod


I've tried it on a xp virtual pc and windows 10 desktop. Both display badly and cut half the screen off the visible area.

If your on the main menu press f1 should then be able to see it.


Also the broken wire might have been reading some of the time. Could be just enough to switch over. Not sure the landi systems would switch back at a lower detected temp.

Make sure you know what the original settings are set to before changing them as you might end up finding you need to recal it otherwise if it was originally like that.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:05 pm 
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It's very likely (as Bri says) that the broken wire did connect / short for a brief time and this was enough to make the system switchover to LPG, unlikely the old Landi system would switch back to petrol when the water temp reading goes low (when the wire is disconnected).

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 9:12 am
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Hi,
Good news to report. Changing the temperature sensor (courtesy of Tinley Tech) seems to have fixed it.
I now get a water temperature reading in the software and the change over to gas is much more predictable than it has ever been.
Nothing I do to the firmware will make the rpm reading accurate. However I can live with that.
I hope to change the car for a lower mileage one in the near future.


Many thanks to you all for your patience and expert help.
Regards,
Rod


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 9:33 pm 
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RodH wrote:
Hi,
Good news to report. Changing the temperature sensor (courtesy of Tinley Tech) seems to have fixed it.
I now get a water temperature reading in the software and the change over to gas is much more predictable than it has ever been.
Nothing I do to the firmware will make the rpm reading accurate. However I can live with that.
I hope to change the car for a lower mileage one in the near future.


Many thanks to you all for your patience and expert help.
Regards,
Rod


If its running OK i wouldn't worry too much about the RPM being shown. Good to know its sorted, would suspect the sensor began failing intermittently before it failed completely hence why your had issues getting worse.


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