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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 7:26 pm 
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Hello Folks,

my LPG changeover switch failed recently, leaving my motorhome stranded. I have removed it as a temporary measure so now running on petrol alone.

I have purchased a new switch after some searching but to my disappointment the connector on the rear is different. I don't have a wiring diagram for my system or the new switch so I am hoping someone can help me with the connections. I have Googled for hours but not found what I need.

The switch is a Landi Renzo LCS A1 V05 and i have tried to attached pics which show the old (6 pin) and new (4 pin) connectors. However, I got this message - "the board attachment quota has been reached". I can post photos if that gets sorted out.

The switch looks like this - http://www.agsiedlik.pl/en/centralka-la ... i1613.html

It turns out that the switch functions are different, despite them having the same LR part number (!) - the old one has an intermediate position and the new has just two - petrol or gas.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 9:06 pm 
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Can't help with the switch even though it looks very similar to the standard AEB switch fitted to systems such as the Leonardo although they only have 4 pins and no intermediate position. To post photo's see here viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12009 as the board quota was reached years ago so it's much easier to host them on Photobucket or similar and just link to them.

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'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
'93 Range Rover 4.2 LSE, Lovato LovEco, sold
'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
'97 Range Rover 4.0SE, eGas multipoint, a project.....

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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 8:44 pm 
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Thanks but no joy with Photobucket - apparently all 5 of the user names I tried are in use! So I gave up.
But the switch I have is the same as in the link in my original post.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 9:19 pm 
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These are the photos from the original poster

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:48 am 
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What system are we talking about here? Is it a single point open loop? In which case all the control is done in the switch rather than by a separate controller so something like this http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/ ... b-engines/ could be fitted instead. It might need the loom changing as well but there's so little to it that it shouldn't be difficult.

_________________
'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
'93 Range Rover 4.2 LSE, Lovato LovEco, sold
'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
'97 Range Rover 4.0SE, eGas multipoint, a project.....

Proud to be a member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 9:42 am 
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As Gilbert said.

The switch on the left is a stand-alone controller and has all the electronics to switch the LPG on and off, petrol on and off, cut off all fuel when the engine stops turning, etc. The switch on the right is just a dumb switch that can only be used in conjunction with a separate ECU controller... they're not interchangeable. The switch Gilbert linked to will be interchangeable with the switch on the left but will need to check pinout, would only involve swapping a few wires around in the loom to the rear of the switch at most. If you tell us the wiring colours on the plug at the back of your switch we'll be able to say which wires need to be swapped around if any.

Fixed a big RV the other day, owner arrived with 2 switches similar to the one on the left, had just bought a new one suspecting old one was broke but vehicle wouldn't run on gas with either switch. RV had just been undersealed... I went straight under the back to look around the tank area and immediately found the joint earth wire that the undersealer had broken, fixed in 5 mins lol... Then owner says 'I'd like to use the new switch but it shows empty and my tanks are full'... Another simple fix, I reprogrammed the switch to 0-90 level sender type.

Simon

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Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
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2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 11:41 pm 
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LPGC wrote:
As Gilbert said.

The switch on the left is a stand-alone controller and has all the electronics to switch the LPG on and off, petrol on and off, cut off all fuel when the engine stops turning, etc. The switch on the right is just a dumb switch that can only be used in conjunction with a separate ECU controller... they're not interchangeable. The switch Gilbert linked to will be interchangeable with the switch on the left but will need to check pinout, would only involve swapping a few wires around in the loom to the rear of the switch at most. If you tell us the wiring colours on the plug at the back of your switch we'll be able to say which wires need to be swapped around if any.

Fixed a big RV the other day, owner arrived with 2 switches similar to the one on the left, had just bought a new one suspecting old one was broke but vehicle wouldn't run on gas with either switch. RV had just been undersealed... I went straight under the back to look around the tank area and immediately found the joint earth wire that the undersealer had broken, fixed in 5 mins lol... Then owner says 'I'd like to use the new switch but it shows empty and my tanks are full'... Another simple fix, I reprogrammed the switch to 0-90 level sender type.

Simon


If its easier send a photo and I'll put it on photobucket of the wiring connector showing the cable colours.


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 7:11 am 
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Thank you all, that's very useful. I will take a photo of the connector and share.
Looks like I wasted my money on the new switch! The linked switch looks like it will do the job.


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 11:18 am 
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I have now ordered one of the switches in the link, which I hope will come with a wiring diagram. I hope also that Brian_H will kindly post photos of the existing connector (many thanks Brian), and the solenoids under the bonnet. As you will see, it is an old system ... but works pretty well!
It will just be a case of wiring the switch correctly into my loom, and the switch looks like it comes with some wiring in any case.
I may need to ask for advice when the switch arrives if it's not clear to me...
Thanks for all the help so far, I wish I had come here sooner.


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 5:53 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 7:57 pm 
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A further update...

I've traced the wiring to the old switch (ie the connector in the photo above) and it was connected as follows:

Y - petrol solenoid +ve
R - ignition coil +ve
Blu - LPG solenoids (the two blue ones in the photo above)
W - LPG tank sender unit
Br - ignition coil -ve
Bla - LPG solenoids and petrol solenoid -ve

So hopefully when my new switch arrives it will simply be a case of patching the wiring to match (fingers crossed!).


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 10:08 pm 
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They are standard colours for a system like yours. Red wire is taking an ignition switched live to power it up, while the brown is picking up pulses to tell it the engine is turning over. The black wire will also be grounded or it won't switch on. Blue will go live when on gas and yellow will be live when on petrol. The only thing that has a question mark on it is the white wire to the level gauge. Simply connect it and it may work but you may need to tell the switch what sender type you have. Without knowing what the options are and what sender type you have, you might need to try a bit of trial and error.

_________________
'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
'93 Range Rover 4.2 LSE, Lovato LovEco, sold
'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
'97 Range Rover 4.0SE, eGas multipoint, a project.....

Proud to be a member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club.


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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 11:45 am 
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New switch now fitted and working perfectly - many thanks for everyone's help.


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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 3:53 pm 
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I would suggest shunting the main power feed on the red wire through a relay.

The LPG system main feed would then come straight from the battery via the relay via a 7.5amp fuse, the switched live from the coil would then energise the relay (via a 3amp fuse). Running the couple of amps that it takes to energise the LPG system solenoid valves can place extra strain on the main feed to the ignition coil, and if there is ever a problem with the LPG system electronics (such as a shorted solenoid coil) there would be no potential for the problem to take out the ignition system...

If you have more than one tank on the motorhome (thus more than 2 LPG solenoid valves, one on each tank and one in the engine bay) I would also fit a relay to switch current to the LPG solenoid valves instead of the current coming directly from the blue wire.

Simon

_________________
Full time LPG installer
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
Mid Yorkshire
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62,
http://www.Lpgc.co.uk
Twitter https://twitter.com/AutogasSimon
07816237240


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:03 pm 
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Thanks Simon, good advice.


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