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 Post subject: Blockage / gas supply
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:23 am 
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For the past few weeks the tank reader in the car has been flashing as empty even when full and on idle started to switch back to petrol as though it was empty.

I have been intending to get her on the drive and have a look what it might be but due to building a, have ruddy big skip on the driveway so it's been on hold. The reader on the tank itself shows the correct fuel level.

Anyway, this morning it started to stutter on the motorway as though the tank was empty. It wasn't, it's got over 30l in it.

It now stalls on gas as though there's no fuel reaching the engine so there's so issue going back to the tank.

The front solenoid is relatively new. About 3 years old. The rear one is the original from install.

It's an aldesa kit.

Any thoughts on likely cause. Am best removing the front solenoid as a starting point and having a look there?

How do I go on if it's an issue with the rear given there's about 7 gallon in the tank?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:37 pm 
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I think I have found the issue. The wiring to the rear solenoid has parted from one of the push on connectors.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:05 pm 
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A nice simple fix for a change. Glad you sorted it.

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'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
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'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:30 pm 
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Yes, crimped a new connector and it's back running on gas.

I am not sure if the switching over is a different issue as the calibration on the dash doesn't read correctly.

Is that something I should be able to look at via the software?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 12:22 am 
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If you had one dodgy connection at the back end, there's nothing to say there isn't another on the cabling from the gauge sender. You can check the calibration of the gauge with the software but if it was working and now isn't it's going to be either a(nother) wiring problem or the gauge dying. If the needle on the gauge reads correctly then it could be the electrical side of the gauge, if the needle is also wrong it's the float that drives it. The gauge can be swapped with a full tank (as it fits on the outside of the multivalve and is driven by a magnet) but if it is the float then you'll need to remove the multivalve so the tank needs to be empty.

_________________
'96 Saab 900XS, AEB Leo, sold
'93 Range Rover 4.2 LSE, Lovato LovEco, sold
'98 Ex-Police Range Rover 4.0, Singlepoint AEB Leo, my daily motor
'97 Range Rover 4.0SE, eGas multipoint, a project.....

Proud to be a member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:13 am 
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Thanks. I will have a look at the wiring this weekend.

The float is reading correctly.

The issue is somewhere after that as the led cabin gauge permanently flashes as though it's down to it's reserve.


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