It is very likely the problem can easily be identified with just a few simple tests even without the interface, which would then lead to a simple fix - If we assume the system worked OK, the ECU and switch aren't broken and nobody has tampered with ECU settings then the list of potential causes is quite small - disconnected rpm wire / bad main power or earth connection (not necessarily inside the fuse holder, also check battery connections) / low resistance solenoid coil (in which case since the fuse doesn't blow would imply dodgy power connection as in the previous point in this list - we'd expect the fuse to blow with solenoid resistance low enough to pull ECU voltage down if power connections were good).
As said in my previous post, you need to start the engine and select petrol mode on the switch (red light only on). Then, with the engine running: If the red light stays lit then it's likely you have a power connection and/or solenoid coil problem - We could easily talk you through finding such problem. / If the red light still goes out then it's likely it is set up to expect an RPM signal on the brown wire and that wire has become disconnected - We could easily talk you through reconnecting that brown wire... In this case would begin by asking you to look at the area around the coil pack's connecting plug as this would be the workmanlike position for connecting the rpm wire, so does it look like someone has tried connecting a wire there?
If you do decide to buy the cable - The software is available as a free download from various websites, the recent AEB systems can be quite fussy when it comes to cables - all described as suitable for the King system will work (and many others will work too including some cheaper cables like generic AC Stag if you just swap the middle 2 wires on the 4 pin Supaseal plug) but many cables tend to lose connection at higher rpm and engine loads, AEB branded cables work best, they still sometimes lose connection but less often. Very likely that your system was supplied to the installer as a 'complete system in a box' main components comprising Emer ECU, Emer's V34 injectors, Emer's OMVL CPR type reducer, by TinleyTech... and I could probably even correctly guess who the installer was (we become familiar with other installers handiwork signatures
). Not to say there is anything wrong with the handiwork which doesn't look a bad job, or anything to doubt about the installer's general standards. Anyway, TinleyTech sell the AEB branded cable and Emer software can be downloaded from their site.. I just bought another AEB cable from them, my other couple of AEB cables were getting a bit worse for wear.
Full time LPG installer
Servicing / Diagnostics / Repairs to all systems / DIY conversion kits supplied with thorough tech support
2 miles A1, 8 miles M62, http://www.Lpgc.co.uk